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本書で紹介するのは、とにかく地味で、華のない知識。でも、これだけは⾃信をもって⾔えます。『“PFCバランス”こそ、王道にして⼀⽣モノの知識！』PFCとは、タンパク質・脂質・炭⽔化物のこと。

Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have...

Aikau's legendary life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii. In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." 

Pulitzer Prize, Biography, 2016. Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.

NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER Surfing icon Laird Hamilton offers inspiration to anyone who wants to elevate their ordinary, landlocked lives to do extraordinary things. “When Laird Hamilton surfs, you must watch. When he speaks, I listen. And when he writes a book, I’m damn sure gonna read...

Wave Woman is the untold story of an adventurer whose zest for life and learning kept her alive for 98 years. Betty Pembroke Heldreich Winstedt was the granddaughter of Mormon pioneers who, after spending an active and athletic childhood in Salt Lake City, moved to Santa Monica with her family and enrolled at USC to study dental hygiene. Betty went on to elope with a man she hardly knew, and to have two daughters. 

When twenty-two-year-old Joe flees landlocked Colorado for a gig at a remote Sri Lankan surf and yoga oasis, he’s newly out, hopelessly naive, and desperately seeking escape. He expects a sun-drenched paradise and an adventurous new beginning, but comes to find so much more as he learns to...

When twenty-two-year-old Joe flees landlocked Colorado for a gig at a remote Sri Lankan surf and yoga oasis, he’s newly out, hopelessly naive, and desperately seeking escape. He expects a sun-drenched paradise and an adventurous new beginning, but comes to find so much more as he learns to...

Master the science of ocean waves and elevate your beginner surfing journey with this calm guide to coastal waters. Instead of struggling through dry technical manuals, experience the meditative life cycle of a single swell traveling from deep-sea storms to the sandy shoreline. Whether you are...

Explore the epic sports history of wave riding, transforming from a sacred coastal ritual into a global rebellion. Perfect for your morning commute or a mindful nature walk, this energetic journey uncovers how early Pacific societies built their mythologies around the living ocean. Feel the...

Trace the cultural history of riding waves from ancient ocean rituals to a modern global sports empire. Whether you are settling in for a relaxing commute or seeking an adventurous escape, this immersive sports history transports you directly to the sunlit breaks of the Pacific. Feel the...

When paramedic Bruce Pike is called out to deal with another teenage adventure gone wrong, he knows better than anyone what happened and how. Thirty years before, that dead boy could have been him. Bruce remembers what it was like to be a risk-taking kid, to feel that thrill and that fear...

A visually stunning and culturally rich exploration of surfing, the oldest sport in North America and an integral part of Hawaiian society that dates back more than 1,000 years. Modern surfing culture has existed for only about 100 years. Even the word "surfing" was a Western invention created...

À 18 ans, après une adolescence passée à parcourir le monde pour en dompter les vagues, Johanne Defay voit son rêve de devenir surfeuse professionnelle vaciller. Son sponsor la lâche, en partie à cause de son physique. Brune, petite et musculeuse, elle ne correspond pas à l'image de la...

Zwischen Surfbrett und Schlagzeile Vor zwölf Jahren war Leo Silva Surfweltmeister – bis Skandale und Exzesse alles zerstörten. Heute lebt er zurückgezogen in einem portugiesischen Küstendorf. Doch eine Einladung zum legendären Rip-Curl-Pro-Wettbewerb bringt ihn überraschend zurück ins Rampenlicht – und sorgt für Wirbel in der Szene. Für die Londoner Sportjournalistin Iris Gray ist Leo die perfekte Titelstory. Doch ihre Reportage steht unter Druck, denn der Surfer ist nicht nur berüchtigt, sondern auch der Sohn der mächtigen TV-Persönlichkeit und Magazininhaberin Michelle Martin – Iris' Chefin.

Surfing is more than just a sport; it's a way of life for many enthusiasts around the world. At its core, surfing involves riding waves while standing or lying on a surfboard. It's a thrilling and dynamic activity that combines athleticism, balance, and a deep connection with the ocean.

A soulful collection of nearly four decades of surf writing. In Deep transports listeners into the heart of the surfing world’s culture through the eyes and imagination of a master storyteller. George’s personality profiles, perspective essays, and travel accounts achieve a level of frank articulation that, much like the works of Theroux, Krakauer, and Finnegan, reveal as much about the man as it does his subjects. Peak transcendence and quiet reflection, famous beaches and lost islands, competitive triumphs and personal tragedies.

Wyl Menmuir’s The Draw of the Sea is a beautifully written and deeply moving portrait of the Cornish Coast and the people who make their livings there, examining the ephemeral but universal pull the sea holds over the human imagination. ‘A beautiful portrait of lives shaped by the swell of...

The ultimate escapist rom com for audiobook and beach lovers! Perfect for fans of Emily Henry and Josie Silver. When romance-fanatic Candice meets writer Alexis, she thinks her happy ending is finally on its way. He walks into her struggling Cornish surf school, and they hit it off straight away...

Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original.