エピソード

  • Surfing news roundup - July 17, 2025
    2025/07/17

    This week's roundupon:
    - Beginner surfers are (allegedly) banned from Cloud 9 in Siargao—so why are surf mags cheering?
    - The Hawaiian princes return to Santa Cruz (well, their boards do) for the biggest surf history exhibit ever
    - And in much better news, dogs are officially better surfers than all of us—especially at the UK Dog Surfing Championships

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    6 分
  • Duke Kahanamoku: The man who gave us surfing
    2025/07/16

    Before surfing became a global obsession, there was Duke Kahanamoku—a Hawaiian waterman whose life changed the sport forever. In this episode, we explore how Duke’s Olympic swimming triumphs and joyful spirit introduced surfing to Australia, California, and the rest of the world.

    From riding giant waves on handmade boards to standing on his head as beachgoers watched in awe, Duke embodied a style and generosity that defined an era. But his story also includes struggle: discrimination in Hollywood, being denied service in restaurants, and decades of being underestimated.

    Join us as we celebrate Duke’s lasting impact on surfing—and why his simple philosophy still resonates today: “Take your time—wave come.”

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    5 分
  • Boils 101: What those swirling patches mean
    2025/07/15

    Ever wondered what those swirling or bubbling patches on the water mean when you’re paddling out? They’re called boils—and they’re more important than you might think.

    In this episode, we’ll break down exactly what boils are, why they form over rocks, reefs, and seabed contours, and how they can completely change the shape of a wave. You’ll learn why boils can be both a red flag and a useful landmark, how to spot them before you take off, and why even seasoned surfers keep an eye out when the swell is pumping.

    Short, practical, and perfect for beginners or anyone who wants to read the ocean a little better.

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    4 分
  • All the things I’ve learned about surfing in 15+ years as a perpetual beginner
    2025/07/14

    This week, it’s my birthday—and the perfect excuse to look back on nearly two decades of surfing as a self-proclaimed perpetual beginner. From the first wobbly pop-up in Wales to countless sessions in California, I’m sharing everything I’ve learned (and unlearned) over 17 years chasing waves.

    We’ll talk about:

    • Why taking a surf sabbatical might cost you more than you think

    • The myth of the “real surfer” and why foamies deserve your respect

    • Buying gear as a procrastination crutch

    • The creeping fear that comes from surfing less and less

    • The joy, heartbreak, and hard-earned wisdom of staying in the lineup—no matter how slowly you progress

    If you’ve ever felt stuck between beginner and intermediate—or wondered whether you’ll ever really feel like a surfer—this one’s for you.

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    13 分
  • Night surfing: Riding waves after dark
    2025/07/13

    Ever wondered what it’s like to paddle out after dark? This episode dives into the surreal world of night surfing—where moonlit waves replace crowded lineups and the ocean feels like a whole different planet.

    We’ll trace the surprising history of surfing by lamplight, from acetylene lanterns strapped to wooden boards in Waikiki to modern sessions under floodlights in Brazil. You’ll hear tips on how to try it safely, what gear helps you stay visible, and why everything feels twice as fast when the sun goes down.

    Whether you’re curious about the romance of full-moon surf or just want to know why some people risk the sharks and the darkness, this is your beginner’s guide to riding waves after hours.

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    4 分
  • Mollymook: A beginner’s guide to surfing Australia’s South Coast gem
    2025/07/12

    Dreaming of rolling beach breaks, warm water, and a classic Aussie surf town without the Bondi crowds? This week, we’re heading to Mollymook—an easygoing surf haven about three hours south of Sydney.

    In this episode, we’ll break down everything you need to know about catching your first waves at Mollymook Beach: where to paddle out, when to go, and what to watch for. From mellow southern peaks perfect for learners to tips on avoiding rips and shorebreak, you’ll get a complete beginner-friendly surf guide.

    We’ll also share what to pack, where to rent boards, and where to refuel after your session (spoiler: there’s great coffee and ocean views). Whether you’re planning a weekend getaway or your first surf trip, Mollymook’s laid-back vibe and beautiful coastline will have you hooked.

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    5 分
  • Anne-Sophie: Surfing, resilience, and finding joy as a lifelong beginner
    2025/07/11

    In this episode, we meet Anne-Sophie Le Caignec—a surfer, writer, and illustrator whose life has been shaped by the waves in more ways than one. Anne-Sophie first discovered surfing by chance on England’s south coast in 2009 and quickly caught the bug.

    Her journey hasn’t always been smooth. After a car accident in 2017 forced her to pause her surfing, Anne-Sophie found strength in community, inspiration from pro surfers like Mark Mathews, and the determination to start again—proving that you never really leave surfing behind.

    Today, she lives in Brittany, France, where cold, beautiful waves fuel her creativity and her passion for surf art. She shares how surfing became a way to process grief, celebrate friendships, and stay connected to what matters most.

    Anne-Sophie’s story is a reminder that you don’t have to be an expert to love this sport—and that the real magic happens when you show up, session after session, no matter what.

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    3 分
  • Surfing news roundup - July 10, 2025
    4 分