Before surfing became a global obsession, there was Duke Kahanamoku—a Hawaiian waterman whose life changed the sport forever. In this episode, we explore how Duke’s Olympic swimming triumphs and joyful spirit introduced surfing to Australia, California, and the rest of the world.

From riding giant waves on handmade boards to standing on his head as beachgoers watched in awe, Duke embodied a style and generosity that defined an era. But his story also includes struggle: discrimination in Hollywood, being denied service in restaurants, and decades of being underestimated.

Join us as we celebrate Duke’s lasting impact on surfing—and why his simple philosophy still resonates today: “Take your time—wave come.”

Ever wondered what those swirling or bubbling patches on the water mean when you’re paddling out? They’re called boils—and they’re more important than you might think.

In this episode, we’ll break down exactly what boils are, why they form over rocks, reefs, and seabed contours, and how they can completely change the shape of a wave. You’ll learn why boils can be both a red flag and a useful landmark, how to spot them before you take off, and why even seasoned surfers keep an eye out when the swell is pumping.

Short, practical, and perfect for beginners or anyone who wants to read the ocean a little better.

This week, it’s my birthday—and the perfect excuse to look back on nearly two decades of surfing as a self-proclaimed perpetual beginner. From the first wobbly pop-up in Wales to countless sessions in California, I’m sharing everything I’ve learned (and unlearned) over 17 years chasing waves.

We’ll talk about:

• Why taking a surf sabbatical might cost you more than you think

• The myth of the “real surfer” and why foamies deserve your respect

• Buying gear as a procrastination crutch

• The creeping fear that comes from surfing less and less

• The joy, heartbreak, and hard-earned wisdom of staying in the lineup—no matter how slowly you progress

If you’ve ever felt stuck between beginner and intermediate—or wondered whether you’ll ever really feel like a surfer—this one’s for you.