検索キーワード： サーフィン・ウインドサーフィン・水上スキー

An eclectic mix of exciting stories every surfer will love. This eclectic mix has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are accounts of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with perfect breaks and beautiful beaches. Be thrilled by legendary surfers like Laird Hamilton and Shane Dorian as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines.

Following a year of record numbers of shark attacks, Sharks Never Sleep takes us around the world to meet shark-attack survivors, shark lovers and shark hunters, who tell us of the primal fear of being eaten alive by a wild animal, the unimaginable grief of losing a loved one and extraordinary stories of encounters with sharks.

“Breathtaking....Crazy for the Storm will keep you up late into the night.” —Washington Post Book World Norman Olstead’s New York Times bestselling memoir Crazy for the Storm is the story of the harrowing plane crash the author miraculously survived at age eleven, framed by the moving...

It is likely not terribly surprising that surfers like to party. The 1960-'70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws. Tanned boys who refused to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. As the surf brands accidentally morphed into a multimillion- then multibillion-dollar industry beginning in the 1980s, however, the derelict portrait began to harm business.

Im VW Bus zu den schönsten Surfspots am Atlantik. Ein Jahr raus aus dem Alltag und tun, was gefällt - das wagt Martin Röhrig gemeinsam mit seinem schlumpfblauen Bulli "Smurfy". Von Hamburg aus brechen die beiden in Richtung Atlantik auf, um der drohenden Midlife-Crisis zu entfliehen. Als Board-Sport-Enthusiast sucht und findet Martin Röhrig dabei die schönsten Surf- und Kite-Spots in Frankreich, Spanien und Portugal - und mittendrin auch sich selbst. Schrauben. Schlafen. Surfen. Eine Geschichte für Aussteiger und solche, die es werden wollen.

As a professional surfer, 17-year-old Iris has travelled the sun-kissed beaches of the globe. But after a tumultuous week in Miami leaves her heartbroken, Iris returns to her hometown on the south coast of England. Putting her promising career on hold. Leaving behind Zeke, the boy who changed her world. Iris is desperate to get back to her old life, to the family and friends she grew up with. She wants to rediscover her passion for surfing. She needs to move on. But Iris soon realises it won't be that simple.

In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the...

Laird Hamilton has been hailed as the world's greatest big-wave surfer. His first book, Force of Nature, allows listeners a rare glimpse inside the unique philosophy that has created his circumstances, and not the other way around. After all, this is a man whose biological father abandoned him shortly after he was born; whose first job was working on a pig farm; who dropped out of school in 11th grade. And then the career decision: surfer.

From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul...

Christian Beamish, a notable writer for The Surfer's Journal, has done what every guy since Huck Finn has dreamed of doing: making his own boat and sailing it to paradise, with adventures along the way. Christian Beamish, a former editor at The Surfer's Journal, envisioned a low-tech...

Before a surfing accident caused thirty-three-year-old Devon Raney to lose all but 15 percent of his vision, he had already lived an extraordinary life. Time and again he'd gone against the grain to maximize time for his passions--surfing, skateboarding, and snowboarding--bringing him into the...

The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves...

In this revelatory and original book, award-winning author of the acclaimed surf memoir On a Wave illuminates the connection between waves, addiction, and recovery, exploring what surfing can teach us about the powerful undertow of addictive behaviors and the ways to swim free of them. Addiction...

Surfen is meer dan alleen een sport; het is een manier van leven voor veel liefhebbers over de hele wereld. In de kern houdt surfen in dat je op de golven surft terwijl je op een surfplank staat of ligt. Het is een spannende en dynamische activiteit die atletisch vermogen, evenwicht en een diepe verbinding met de oceaan combineert.

What makes for a surfing life? With a blaze of groundbreaking performances and a swag of titles claimed from all over the world to his name, Australian world champion surfer Nat Young might know. His seventieth birthday inspired some reflection on exactly that, and on the waves and characters...

The sport of surfing has a mystique and allure that has transformed many of these icons into mythical figures. Surfer Stories brings them together in one definitive collection that will appeal to those who surf and those who don’t!

A deep look into the surf therapy movement, the therapists at the forefront of this radical new treatment, and its many applications for treating anxiety, PTSD, and more. Winner of the 2024 Surf Park Summit Democratization & Accessibility Award Surfing? As a form of therapy? It's not just...

Surfing in Heaven. An outrageous thought... Or is it? Surfing in Heaven chronicles a significant portion of Mike’s life as a surfer in California, spanning from the 1960s to late 2024. The story unfolds through eight distinct "waves," each capturing a key theme that brought Mike closer to the dream of riding perfect waves in Heaven. In the vibrant surf culture of Southern California during the 1960s, Mike's life was molded by the waves and his father, a pioneering Malibu surfer who was one of the lucky few to return home from WWII.

Discover the thrilling journey of surfing from its ancient Polynesian roots to its global explosion in this vivid narrative that rides the swells of time and culture. Riding the Wave: A Global History of Surfing is a sweeping, personal, and richly told nonfiction story that blends past and present, myth and memory, ritual and rebellion.

Jaimal Yogis deja la secundaria urbana para escapar a Hawái con un par de libros y una inquietud por aprender a surfear. En la isla, lejos de la vida urbana, emprende un viaje repleto de altibajos, que pronto se convertirá en una travesía de aprendizaje. Misma que lo llevará desde las cabañas y cálidas olas del Pacífico, hasta los barcos de bahía, universidades, monasterios y aguas heladas de Brooklyn.