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When twenty-two-year-old Joe flees landlocked Colorado for a gig at a remote Sri Lankan surf and yoga oasis, he’s newly out, hopelessly naive, and desperately seeking escape. He expects a sun-drenched paradise and an adventurous new beginning, but comes to find so much more as he learns to...

When twenty-two-year-old Joe flees landlocked Colorado for a gig at a remote Sri Lankan surf and yoga oasis, he’s newly out, hopelessly naive, and desperately seeking escape. He expects a sun-drenched paradise and an adventurous new beginning, but comes to find so much more as he learns to...

A visually stunning and culturally rich exploration of surfing, the oldest sport in North America and an integral part of Hawaiian society that dates back more than 1,000 years. Modern surfing culture has existed for only about 100 years. Even the word "surfing" was a Western invention created...

À 18 ans, après une adolescence passée à parcourir le monde pour en dompter les vagues, Johanne Defay voit son rêve de devenir surfeuse professionnelle vaciller. Son sponsor la lâche, en partie à cause de son physique. Brune, petite et musculeuse, elle ne correspond pas à l'image de la...

Master the science of ocean waves and elevate your beginner surfing journey with this calm guide to coastal waters. Instead of struggling through dry technical manuals, experience the meditative life cycle of a single swell traveling from deep-sea storms to the sandy shoreline. Whether you are...

Explore the epic sports history of wave riding, transforming from a sacred coastal ritual into a global rebellion. Perfect for your morning commute or a mindful nature walk, this energetic journey uncovers how early Pacific societies built their mythologies around the living ocean. Feel the...

Trace the cultural history of riding waves from ancient ocean rituals to a modern global sports empire. Whether you are settling in for a relaxing commute or seeking an adventurous escape, this immersive sports history transports you directly to the sunlit breaks of the Pacific. Feel the...

Zwischen Surfbrett und Schlagzeile Vor zwölf Jahren war Leo Silva Surfweltmeister – bis Skandale und Exzesse alles zerstörten. Heute lebt er zurückgezogen in einem portugiesischen Küstendorf. Doch eine Einladung zum legendären Rip-Curl-Pro-Wettbewerb bringt ihn überraschend zurück ins Rampenlicht – und sorgt für Wirbel in der Szene. Für die Londoner Sportjournalistin Iris Gray ist Leo die perfekte Titelstory. Doch ihre Reportage steht unter Druck, denn der Surfer ist nicht nur berüchtigt, sondern auch der Sohn der mächtigen TV-Persönlichkeit und Magazininhaberin Michelle Martin – Iris' Chefin.

A deep look into the surf therapy movement, the therapists at the forefront of this radical new treatment, and its many applications for treating anxiety, PTSD, and more. Winner of the 2024 Surf Park Summit Democratization & Accessibility Award Surfing? As a form of therapy? It's not just...

Surfing in Heaven. An outrageous thought... Or is it? Surfing in Heaven chronicles a significant portion of Mike’s life as a surfer in California, spanning from the 1960s to late 2024. The story unfolds through eight distinct "waves," each capturing a key theme that brought Mike closer to the dream of riding perfect waves in Heaven. In the vibrant surf culture of Southern California during the 1960s, Mike's life was molded by the waves and his father, a pioneering Malibu surfer who was one of the lucky few to return home from WWII.

Manchmal muss man gegen die Wellen kämpfen, um die richtige Strömung zu finden – und manchmal ist es die Liebe, die dich über Wasser hält Bliss hat alles, was sie braucht, um glücklich zu sein: ihren Van, die Freiheit der kalifornischen Küsten und das Rauschen der Wellen. Doch als der...

Bloomsbury presents The Way of the Waves, written and read by Martin Dorey 'A wonderfully entertaining and deeply inspirational adventure by one of life's great enthusiasts' – Tim Moore, travel writer A slow, low-carbon journey by bike through Europe’s western fringes. Part personal...

Discover the thrilling journey of surfing from its ancient Polynesian roots to its global explosion in this vivid narrative that rides the swells of time and culture. Riding the Wave: A Global History of Surfing is a sweeping, personal, and richly told nonfiction story that blends past and present, myth and memory, ritual and rebellion.

Jaimal Yogis deja la secundaria urbana para escapar a Hawái con un par de libros y una inquietud por aprender a surfear. En la isla, lejos de la vida urbana, emprende un viaje repleto de altibajos, que pronto se convertirá en una travesía de aprendizaje. Misma que lo llevará desde las cabañas y cálidas olas del Pacífico, hasta los barcos de bahía, universidades, monasterios y aguas heladas de Brooklyn.

NATIONAL BESTSELLER * 2025 BOOKLIST EDITORS' CHOICE SELECTION A former Obama speechwriter moves to the Jersey Shore and learns to surf with the help of his brother-in-law: a tattooed, truck-driving Joe Rogan superfan. David, the Yale-educated writer with a fear of sharks, and Matt, the daredevil...

The sport of surfing has a mystique and allure that has transformed many of these icons into mythical figures. Surfer Stories brings them together in one definitive collection that will appeal to those who surf and those who don’t!

Aikau's legendary life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii. In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." 

本書で紹介するのは、とにかく地味で、華のない知識。でも、これだけは⾃信をもって⾔えます。『“PFCバランス”こそ、王道にして⼀⽣モノの知識！』PFCとは、タンパク質・脂質・炭⽔化物のこと。

Surfen is meer dan alleen een sport; het is een manier van leven voor veel liefhebbers over de hele wereld. In de kern houdt surfen in dat je op de golven surft terwijl je op een surfplank staat of ligt. Het is een spannende en dynamische activiteit die atletisch vermogen, evenwicht en een diepe verbinding met de oceaan combineert.

Surfing is more than just a sport; it's a way of life for many enthusiasts around the world. At its core, surfing involves riding waves while standing or lying on a surfboard. It's a thrilling and dynamic activity that combines athleticism, balance, and a deep connection with the ocean.