Riding the Wave
A Global History of Surfing (Voices of History)
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プレミアムプラン4か月 月額99円キャンペーン開催中
Riding the Wave
￥1,470 で購入
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ナレーター：
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Woody Shaw
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著者：
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Oliver Greyson
Discover the thrilling journey of surfing from its ancient Polynesian roots to its global explosion in this vivid narrative that rides the swells of time and culture. Riding the Wave: A Global History of Surfing is a sweeping, personal, and richly told nonfiction story that blends past and present, myth and memory, ritual and rebellion.
Join author Oliver Greyson as he explores sacred Hawaiian surf rituals, the rise of California's surf culture, and the worldwide spread of wave-riding from Senegal to Sydney. Along the way, meet iconic figures like Duke Kahanamoku, Miki Dora, Eddie Aikau, and modern surf pioneers whose lives shaped a movement that transcends sport.
With immersive storytelling and vibrant cultural insights, this book is a must-listen for surfers, ocean lovers, and anyone drawn to the rhythm of freedom, nature, and human connection. From ancient chants to carbon-fiber boards, this is the story of how surfing became a global language—and how it continues to speak to the soul.
Whether you're a seasoned surfer or a curious beachcomber, Riding the Wave invites you to paddle out and experience the magic behind every ride.
©2025 Oliver Greyson (P)2025 Oliver Greyson