Niya DeGroat shares their journey in the fashion industry, highlighting the importance of Indigenous representation and the challenges faced by Two-Spirit individuals. Niya discusses their work with Phoenix Fashion Week, the recent launch of their magazine Indigène, and the significance of slow fashion practices. Niya emphasizes the need for collaboration between Indigenous designers and mainstream fashion, advocating for a more inclusive and equitable industry. The conversation also touches on the storytelling aspect of Indigenous fashion and the impact of colonialism on identity.

Takeaways

Niya DeGroat emphasizes the importance of Indigenous representation in fashion.

The journey of Niya from intern to a prominent figure in Indigenous fashion.

Indigenous fashion is rooted in storytelling and cultural significance.

The need for collaboration between Indigenous designers and mainstream fashion.

Slow fashion practices are essential for sustainability and cultural preservation.

Niya’s experience highlights the challenges of navigating identity in a Western-centric fashion industry.

The significance of Two-Spirit identity in contemporary fashion.

Indigène Magazine aims to showcase diverse Indigenous voices and stories.

The impact of colonialism on Indigenous fashion and identity.

Niya advocates for a more inclusive and equitable fashion industry.

Links, references & further reading

• Indigène Magazine: https://indigenemagazine.com/
• Niya’s website: https://www.niyadegroat.com/
• Indigène on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/indigenemagazine/
• Niya on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/niyadegroat/
• One of Laura’s favorite articles by Niya, which she frequently assigns in class or recommends to students: https://www.culturalsurvival.org/publications/cultural-survival-quarterly/decolonizing-fashion-one-runway-time

In this episode, Dr Laura Beltrán-Rubio reviews the exhibition ‘Textiles: The Art of Mankind’ at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London. She discusses the integral role of textiles in human history, the beauty of the exhibited pieces, and the challenges faced in curatorial practices. Laura critiques the language and representation used in the exhibition, highlighting missed opportunities to engage with broader themes and community narratives. She concludes with suggestions for improving future exhibitions, emphasizing the importance of community engagement and thoughtful representation.

Takeaways

Textiles are essential to human creativity and history.

The exhibition showcased a deep connection between textiles and humanity.

Curatorial practices can sometimes perpetuate outdated narratives.

Language and naming conventions are crucial in representation.

Missed opportunities exist in engaging with community narratives.

Textiles reflect complex histories and identities.

The beauty of textiles can evoke personal connections.

Community engagement enhances the understanding of textile art.

Critique of the exhibition's language and terminology is necessary.

Future exhibitions should prioritize inclusivity and representation.

Relevant links & references

On molas: ‘Fashioning Identity: Mola Textiles of Panamá’ by Andrea Vazquez de Arthur (8 October 2020)

On the ‘art’ vs ‘craft’ debate around textiles: Sew What? ‘Episode 21 – The Art of Craft: Needlework in the Art and Craft Debate’ (1 October 2020)

Book: ‘Textiles: The Art of Mankind’ (commissionable link)

Exhibition website: https://fashiontextilemuseum.org/exhibitionsdisplays/textiles-the-art-of-mankind/

More about Laura

Website: ⁠https://laurabelru.com/⁠

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/laurabelru

TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@laurabelru

Newsletter: ⁠https://laurabelru.substack.com/

In celebration of the back-to-school season, Dr. Laura Beltrán-Rubio discusses the need to redress fashion history education by incorporating diverse perspectives and personal narratives, while also emphasizing the significance of engaging students’ passions and values in their learning process. The conversation highlights various strategies for educators to create a more inclusive and meaningful fashion curriculum.

This is not a fashion history podcast nor a practical note on fashion and style, but it has bits and pieces of both. While this is intended for mostly fashion educators and students, I also hope it will be relevant to those who are not fashion students or educators or are not returning to fashion school this year.

Special thanks to Katie Ibsen, Serena Dyer, Jonathan Square, and Kimberly Jenkins for their generous contributions to this episode!

Chapters

00:00 Reflecting on Fashion Education

04:58 Dismantling the Fashion History Survey

09:33 Making History Personal

12:02 Redressing Fashion History

15:47 Engaging and Personal Histories

22:30 Antidotes to AI

26:00 Outside the History Classroom

27:55 Personal Style and Fashion Scholarship

32:12 Third Spaces for Fashion in Schools

35:20 Three Little Things

Takeaways

- Critical thinking should precede reliance on AI tools.

- Fashion education needs to reflect diverse cultural narratives.

- Personal style development is a continuous journey.

- Engaging students' passions is crucial for effective learning.

- Redressing fashion history involves questioning traditional narratives.

- Diversity in fashion education enhances student engagement.

- Fashion history should include non-Western perspectives.

- Teaching strategies should adapt to student backgrounds.

- Fashion education can foster personal and social values.

Meet the scholars (in order of mention/appearance)

Professor Hazel Clark: https://www.newschool.edu/parsons/faculty/hazel-clark/

Katie Ibsen: https://www.katieibsen.com/

Dr Serena Dyer: https://www.serenadyer.co.uk/

Dr Jonathan Square: https://www.jonathansquare.com/

Kimberly Jenkins: https://www.kimberlymjenkins.com/

Relevant links & references

• Fashion Education: The Systemic Revolution: https://www.intellectbooks.com/fashion-education

• Learn about the history of boteh: https://fashionandrace.org/database/boteh/

• Join my group style coaching program: https://laurabelru.com/style/

More about Laura

Visit my website: ⁠https://laurabelru.com/⁠

Find me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/laurabelru

Find me on TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@laurabelru

Sign up to my newsletter: ⁠https://laurabelru.substack.com/