In the early Spring of 1854, 31 year-old David Ward, not yet known as "the Pine King" sought one of the state's greatest stands of "cork pine" (the highest grade of the Eastern White Pine) west of Otsego and Bradford lakes in Otsego County. This would be a race with the St. Mary's Falls Ship Canal Company's timber cruiser, Addison Brewer for the same stand of pine.

With the backing of Detroit lumbermen and bankers Dwight, Smith, and Co. and William A. Howard, David Ward and his assistant, John Baily, and their packers would experience the extreme changes in Michigan's late winter and early spring weather from three and a half feet of snow, frozen rivers, and -30 degree Fahrenheit temperatures to south winds and fast warm-ups that melted most of the snow in a single day.

The competition with the "Soo Canal Company" men continued south to Detroit then northwest to the United States Land Office in Ionia, west of Lansing.

The outcome of this is that David Ward would purchase 16,000 acres of prime "cork pine" at a cost of $20,000. At the time of the purchase, this great pinery was located far from the lumber markets with no easy way to move the lumber and it was considered to be "Ward's folly." By the end of the Nineteenth century, a major north-south rail line would run through the heart of Ward's holdings, and much of the timber would already be harvested, though a little of this holding would be part of the Deward Estate that would be logged the following decade during the existence of Deward.

In this special bonus episode, I read David Ward's own account of this event from The Autobiography of David Ward, published in 1912, after his death.

Episode Resources

Ward, David. "The Autobiography of David Ward." New York, 1912 (Privately Printed).

This book might be found in some libraries. The Devereaux Library in Grayling, Michigan, part of the Crawford County Library System, has a non-circulating copy that is available for patrons to study. Reprints may be available as well, as the book has gone out of copyright and is now in the public domain.

Inflation Calculator, www.in2013dollars.com.

"$20,000 in 1854 is equivalent in purchasing power to about $756,359.52 today, an increase of $736,359.52 over 171 years. The dollar had an average inflation rate of 2.15% per year between 1854 and today, producing a cumulative price increase of 3,681.80%"

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In this final episode of the first season of the podcast, I am recording this remotely from the old lumber ghost town of Deward, Michigan. Deward lived as an actual town for just twelve years, 1900-1912, while the David Ward Estate logged off the last great pine lumber holdings of David Ward, Michigan's "Pine King" at the tail end of the white pine lumber boom.

Deward was located on the banks of the Manistee River near where Antrim, Crawford, Kalkaska, and Otsego counties meet. This was in the center of Ward's last great holdings of white pine lumber. David Ward was one of the great figures of Michigan's 19th century lumber industry. Born in 1822 in Keene, New York in the Adirondack Mountains, David Ward first came with his father to Michigan, to assist him in timber cruising for Eastern clients in the newly opened Michigan Territory. His family soon followed his father and David to Michigan, settling in Newport in St. Clair County (today's Marine City). David Ward followed in his father's trade as a surveyor and timber cruiser, however he tried other employment before settling completely into the lumber industry. He worked as a school teacher, a commercial fisherman, and even studied medicine at the University of Michigan, but it was in the lumber industry that he would make his fortune.

As a timber cruiser, David Ward was hired by others to seek out and purchase prime timberlands. Part of his payment was the right to reserve some of these purchases for himself. Ward was able to string together landholdings all over Michigan, primarily in the Saginaw River Valley and in the region of the headwaters of the AuSable and Manistee rivers.

David Ward died in 1900 at the age of 78. His will stipulated that his heirs had to liquidate his timber holdings within twelve years. A sawmill was located on the Manistee River with a rail connection to Ward's own railroad, the Detroit and Charlevoix Railroad. The mill was completed in late 1900, though logging operations had already begun in the area, with logs initially shipped by rail to other mills. The mill cut its last logs in the Spring of 1912 and the town quickly shutdown.

Michigan's last great stand of Eastern White Pine had been cut.

EPISODE RESOURCES

Leech, Carl Addison. Deward: A Lumberman’s Ghost Town. Michigan History Magazine. Lansing, Michigan. Vol. 28, No. 1, January-March, 1944.

Maybee, Rolland H. Michigan’s White Pine Era 1840-1900. Lansing, Michigan. Michigan Bureau of History. 1988.

Ward, David. The Autobiography of David Ward. New York. Privately Printed. 1912.

Mabel Edwards Secord Papers. Michigan Historical Collections, Bentley Historical Library, University of Michigan. Ann Arbor, Michigan.

Ward Family Papers, 1872-1964. Michigan Historical Collections, Bentley Historical Library, University of Michigan. Ann Arbor, Michigan.

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In this week's episode we travel to Hartwick Pines State Park where I visit with my old friend and former coworker Craig Kasmer, the park's interpreter/naturalist to learn about the wildlife that live in the northern forests.

The Old Growth Forest at Hartwick Pines State Park is a unique area. The large white pines that survived the lumber era is the main attraction, but they are not the only special part of this forest. The decaying logs and snags (dead standing trees) provide habitat for many species of wildlife. The wildlife in this forest and in other northern forests can vary greatly and are affected by outside forces from climate change to logging, fire, and construction. Craig talks about how the wildlife has been affected by all of these changes.

Learn more about Hartwick Pines State Park and its programs:

https://www.michigan.gov/dnr/places/v-centers/hartwick

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In this week's episode, we depart a little bit from what we've been talking about and get a little philosophical regarding forests and the wilderness. I want to introduce listeners today to Sigurd F. Olson (1899-1982), one of my personal heroes. Sigurd Olson was an educator, canoe guide, outfitter, writer, and a leading voice in the preservation of wilderness.

Sigurd Olson, the son of Swedish immigrants, his father being a Swedish Baptist minister, was born in Chicago and grew up in small towns in northern Wisconsin. After being educated at Northland College (Ashland, Wisconsin), and the University of Wisconsin, Madison, Sig and his wife, Elizabeth, found their way to Ely, Minnesota where he was hired as a high school science teacher. To help make ends meet, as his family grew with the addition of two sons, Sigurd T., and Robert, Sig began working summers as a canoe guide in the Quetico-Superior border lakes, now known as the Boundary Waters Canoe Wilderness Area. In 1929, Sigurd and two partners purchased a canoe outfitters in nearby Winton, Minnesota. His high school teaching position would lead him to be on the faculty of Ely Junior College, and eventually as the college's dean. During this period, Sigurd Olson also began writing, first for outdoor magazines and periodicals, with his subjects ranging from canoeing, fishing, camping, and other recreational pursuits, to his greatest topic, the importance of wilderness on our well being.

This latter subject matter would become his life pursuit. Making Ely his homebase for the remainder of his life, Sig became one of the great voices in the movement to protect wilderness areas. He was not as well known as his contemporary Aldo Leopold; Sig's voice was able to reach both the great leaders and also the everyday outdoorsman. He found his greatest audiences through nine books that he wrote beginning with The Singing Wilderness in 1956. His last book, Of Time and Place, was published posthumously in 1982. Sigurd Olson also served as president of the National Parks Association and The Wilderness Society. In the 1960s he was a part of a special advisory committee to Stewart Udall, the Secretary of the Interior for presidents John F. Kennedy and Lyndon B. Johnson.

Sigurd Olson's accolades include being the namesake of the Sigurd Olson Environmental Institute at Northland College, and the recipient of the John Burroughs Medal in 1974 for being recognized as the year's best nature writer.

Sigurd F. Olson died on January 13, 1982 from a heart attack while snowshoeing at his cabin, Listening Point.

Today, Olson's cabin, Listening Point, the subject of his 1958 book of the same name, is owned by The Listening Point Foundation. Their office is in the former Sigurd and Elizabeth Olson residence in Ely. The residence also includes Olson's writing shack. The last sentence that he typed remains in his typewriter: A New Adventure is coming up/ and I'm sure it will be/ A good one.

All three sites are open for visitors, in season.

Sigurd Olson's books and books about him:

• The Singing Wilderness (1956)
• Listening Point (1958)
• The Lonely Land (1961)
• Runes of the North (1963)
• Open Horizons (1969)
• The Hidden Forest (1969)
• Wilderness Days (1972)
• Reflections From the North Country (1976)
• Of Time and Place (1982)
• Songs of the North. Howard Frank Mosher, ed. (1987)
• The Collected Works of Sigurd F. Olson: The Early Writings, 1921–1934. Mike Link, ed. (1988)
• The Collected Works of Sigurd F. Olson: The College Years, 1935–1944. Mike Link, ed. (1990)
• The Meaning

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Hartwick Pines State Park, located near Grayling, Michigan is a special place that preserves one of the few remaining Old Growth White Pine Forests in Michigan. On today's episode, special guest Hillary Pine joins the podcast to talk about the park and how it was created through the efforts of Karen Hartwick. Hillary is the Northern Lower Peninsula Historian for the Michigan Department of Natural Resources and the Michigan History Center.

In the late 19th century the area that is now Hartwick Pines State Park was logged by the Salling, Hanson, and Company of Grayling. In 1893, in the midst of cutting a large tract of pine, the loggers stopped where they were due to the Panic of 1893, a now little known economic depression of the time period. Home construction was stopped dead in its tracks, so the lumber industry was stalled as well. The Salling, Hanson, and Company (SHCo.) left a stand of approximately 85 acres of pine. When they resumed logging the area about three years later, they deemed this tract of pine to be too small in size to warrant the expense of operating a camp and the logging railroad maintenance to finish the cut. Instead they turned their attention to a nearby 8,000 acre tract of pine.

The SHCo. never cut this remaining stand and it became a local landmark for area residents to drive a wagon or later automobiles out to the pines to picnic. Rasmus Hanson, the president of the SHCo. unsuccessfully tried to sell the stand to the state of Michigan to create a state park, but this was a time when the state was gaining land at no cost through tax reversion. Karen Hartwick, the daughter of Nels Michelson, a former partner in the SHCo. was persuaded to step in to purchase the land and donate it to the state to create a state park in the memory of her late husband, Grayling native Major Edward E. Hartwick, who died serving his country in World War I.

Episode Resources

Miller, Gordon K. "A Biographical Sketch of Major Edward E. Hartwick, Together with a Compilation of Major Hartwick's Letters and Diaries Written During the Spanish-American and World Wars." Detroit, MI, 1921 (Heritage Books reprint).

Pine, Hillary. "Hartwick Pines, A Story of Love," "Michigan History magazine." Vol. 102, No. 1, January/February 2018.

Hartwick Pines Logging Museum website, Michigan History Center
https://www.michigan.gov/mhc/museums/hp

Hartwick Pines State Park website, Michigan DNR, Parks and Recreation Division
https://www.michigan.gov/recsearch/parks/hartwick

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In this episode, we head north to Michigan's Upper Peninsula and discover "the Kingston Plains." This is an area of cutover and burned over land, known as stumpfields because the most predominant feature on the landscape is the vast amount of fire-scarred tree stumps.

Typically during logging operations there would be a lot of "slash" left after the big (and sometimes not so big) trees were harvested. This would consist of the branches and limbs from the trees that had been removed from the trunks, trees of lesser or no value that needed to be removed for clear landings for the big pines, and anything that stood in the way for moving the logs out of the forest. These piles of forest litter would just sit in the cutover areas and dry out from the sun. They were susceptible to fires from a variety of means: lightning, sparks from trains, being intentionally burned to clear the land or carelessness with a match or a pipe of tobacco. In places with excessive amounts of slash, these fires would burn quick and hot. The Kingston Plains was one such place where this happened. Not once, but several times. In the case of the Kingston Plains, these fires burned so hot that seeds from the logged trees were destroyed and the nutrients that fertilized the soils were baked away. The results was a landscape that resembled a moonscape.

This episode brings you to the site of the Kingston Plains in Alger county and reveals some of the background of the lumber operations that utilized this land.

How to Visit the Kingston Plains:
The Kingston Plains is managed by the Michigan Department of Natural Resources as part of the Lake Superior State Forest. It is located along the Kingston Truck Trail and the Adams Truck Trail in Alger county, south of County Road H58 and west of Michigan route M77. It is south of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. The two main roads through the area are seasonal roads but are okay for most cars to follow. There are numerous two-tracks that branch off of the main roads that are not recommended for two-wheel drive or low clearance vehicles. There are a few state forest campgrounds in the area and there are two national park campgrounds in the nearby Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, but the closest lodging is at the two ends of Pictured Rocks at nearby Grand Marais, and further west at Munising. Other visitor amenities are lacking nearby. There are no restroom or water facilities at the Kingston Plains, so please plan accordingly.

Episode Sources:

Botti, William B. and Michael D. Moore. "Michigan's State Forests: A Century of Stewardship." East Lansing, MI, Michigan State University Press. 2006.

Burg, Rob. "Fire Follows the Axe: Climate Change and the Lumber Industry in the Upper Great Lakes in the 19th and early 20th centuries." Unpublished manuscript. Presented at the 2023 ALHFAM Conference, Sauder Village, Archbold, OH. 2023.

Crowe, William S. (and edited by Lynn McGlothlin Emerick and Ann McGlothlin Weller) "Lumberjack: Inside an Era in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan." Skandia, MI, North Country Publishing, Third edition, 2002.

Dickmann, Donald I. and Larry A. Leefers. "The Forests of Michigan." Ann Arbor, MI, The University of Michigan Press, 2003.

Fuller, George N. "Governors of the Territory and State of Michigan." Lansing, MI, Michigan Historical Commission, Bulletin No. 16, 1928.

Murphy, Donovan. "On the Altar of Industry: A History of the Kingston Plains." "Up Country: A Journal of the Lake Superior Region." Northern Michigan University, Marquette, MI. Vol. 10, article 2. September 9, 2022. https://commons.nmu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1075&context=upper_country

Sodders, Betty. "Michigan on Fire." Thunder Bay Press, 1997.

Symon, Charles A. "We Can Do

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Near the end of the logging era, there was a realization that our forests were not the inexhaustible resource that was once thought. Throughout the United States there was an effort to reforest the cutover lands and develop a new system of modern forestry. In Michigan this began to happen in the Grayling-Higgins Lake-Roscommon area of the northern Lower Peninsula.

In this episode of the North Country History with Rob Burg podcast I go on location to the Historic Higgins Lake Nursery and the Beal Plantation where some of the early efforts of Michigan's reforestation movement began. I recorded these remotes in May 2024 during a vacation that took me from Higgins Lake to the central Upper Peninsula.

For more information about the sites visited, please check out these links:

North Higgins Lake State Park:
https://www2.dnr.state.mi.us/parksandtrails/Details.aspx?id=478&type=SPRK

Higgins Lake Nursery and CCC Museum:
https://www.michigan.gov/mhc/museums/hln-ccc

Beal Plantation:
https://graylingmichigan.org/listing/w-j-beal-tree-planting-area/46/

Episode Sources:
Botti, William and Michael D. Moore. "Michigan's State Forests: A Century of Stewardship." East Lansing, MI, Michigan State University Press, 2006.

Dempsey, Dave. "Ruin & Recovery: Michigan's Rise as a Conservation Leader." Ann Arbor, MI, The University of Michigan Press, 2001.

Dickmann, Donald I. and Larry A. Leefers. "The Forests of Michigan." Ann Arbor, MI, The University of Michigan Press, 2003.

Hotchkiss, George W. "History of the Lumber and Forestry Industry of the Northwest." Chicago, IL, 1898.

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This episode is a continuation of the previous episode "Winter Logging." After the logs were cut in the winter they were moved to the banking grounds to await the Spring breakup of ice on the rivers to move the logs by water to the sawmills at the mouths of the rivers on the Great Lakes.

River drives were the most dangerous aspect of the logging industry. It took a steady and skillful man to be able to handle logs on a river drive as they were shepherded to the sawmills. Injury and death could be encountered by the careless or just unlucky river driver. For this reason, only the best hands were hired to move the logs. They had to be agile on their feet and be skilled to handle the tools of the trade such as the pike poles and Peavey poles. At the end of the drives in milltowns such as Alpena, AuSable and Oscoda, Bay City, Manistee, Manistique, Menominee, Muskegon, Oscoda, and Saginaw, the men were rewarded with their pay, alcohol, female companionship, and entertainment of all kinds. These men would walk tall as the greatest figures in the lumber industry.

However there was a great environmental impact of the river drives on the rivers of the Great Lakes, some that we are still feeling today. The landscapes of the rivers changed by the impact of logs being dumped into the river. The rivers themselves changed, making them less suitable for aquatic and terrestrial wildlife, and it has taken a century, or more, for these rivers to recover.

Correction in Podcast: I kept mentioning Front Street in Bay City. It is actually Water Street that I was referring to.

Episode Sources:

Alexander, Jeff. "The Muskegon: The Majesty and Tragedy of Michigan's Rarest River." Michigan State University Press, East Lansing, MI, 2006.

Allen, Clifford (editor). "Michigan Log Marks." WPA Writers' Project, Michigan State College, East Lansing, MI, 1941.

Benson, Barbara E. "Logs and Lumber: The Development of Lumbering in Michigan's Lower Peninsula 1837-1870." Clarke Historical Library, Central Michigan University, Mount Pleasant, MI, 1989.

Crowe, William S., and Lynn McGlothlin Emerick and Ann McGlothlin Weller (editors). "Lumberjack: Inside an Era in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan." North Country Publishing, Skandia, MI, 2002.

Foehl, Harold M. and Irene M. Hargreaves. "The Story of Logging the White Pine in the Saginaw Valley." Red Keg Press, Bay City, MI, 1964.

Halsey, John R., Eric A. McDonald, and Rose Lockwood Moore. "The East Branch Big Creek Logging Dam and Sluiceway (20OD25), Oscoda County, Michigan." "The Michigan Archaeologist." Michigan Archaeological Society, Grand Rapids, MI, Vol. 43, Nos. 2-3, 1997.

Kilar, Jeremy W. "Michigan's Lumbertowns: Lumbermen and Laborers in Saginaw, Bay CIty, and Muskegon, 1870-1905." Wayne State University Press, Detroit, MI, 1990.

Maybee, Rolland H. "Michigan's White Pine Era 1840-1900." Michigan Historical Commission, Lansing, MI, 1960.

Miller, Hazen L. "The Old Au Sable." William B. Eerdmans Publishing Co., Grand Rapids, MI, 1963.

Nolan, Herbert. "Logging the Tittabawassee: In Memory of Camp Sixteeners." Printer Devil's Press, Tawas City, MI, 1970.

Rector, William Gerald. "Log Transportation in the Lake States Lumber Industry, 1840-1918." The Arthur H. Clarke Company, Glendale, CA, 1953.

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