In this episode, cotton expert Tim North discusses global cotton production, trade dynamics, and government support programs in key countries like the U.S., India, China, and Pakistan. He highlights how subsidies distort markets, why some traditional exporters have become importers, and the challenges facing producers.

The conversation also covers the rise of regenerative and traceable cotton as scalable, sustainable alternatives to organic cotton. Looking ahead, North sees little short-term price movement unless supply issues, especially in Texas, disrupt the market.

Want more of Tim’s insights and expertise? Go knock on the door: https://www.timnorthcotton.com/

Andrew and Umer Farooq Qureshi pull back the denim curtain to reveal Levi’s jaw-dropping 62% margin is built on supplier suffering. From closed-door biddings to so-called partnerships, from collapsing currencies to cotton politics, this episode shows exactly how the kings (brands) are bleeding the commoners (factories) dry, and what happens when the commoners stop playing nice. This isn’t just a talk about jeans. It’s about fairness, futures, and who gets crushed when a spreadsheet wins.

👉 Want the backstory? This whole conversation was sparked by Umer’s LinkedIn post: The Things No One Tells You but You Should Know If You’re a Levi’s Supplier

In this solo episode, Andrew returns from a whirlwind week—first as a guest at the Kingpin Show in Amsterdam, his first time attending since selling the business, and then at a high-level diplomatic event in Washington, D.C.—to share unfiltered reflections on industry dynamics, global economic shifts, and the rising impact of U.S. tariffs. From the importance of venue vibes to why group negotiations could save the supply chain, this candid conversation covers it all. Plus, insights from an unexpected bright spot: Pakistan’s surprising economic turnaround.

Got thoughts on the episode or something you'd like Andrew to cover next? He’d love to hear from you: amolah@olah.com.

This edition covers ground close to my heart because it's about discovery, it's about feeling, and about the heart in business. I get to talk to Peter Caplowe, who was not in the jeans business in 1994 but went to Japan, discovered Evis, or Evisu, the Japanese brand that had a domestic cult following, super expensive 1940s Levi replications with hand painted back pockets, that Mr. Yamane the creator and owner, painted himself, 14 pairs a day. And from there, Peter built an amazing business.

Peter Caplowe LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/peter-caplowe-23b56714/

Entrepot.Asia: https://www.entrepot.asia/

Anatt Finkler, an enthusiastic member of the denim industry from Mexico who finds joy not just from her work but in education and sustainability.

Learn more about Anatt’s professional journey: https://www.linkedin.com/in/anatt-f-70229181/

Ethical Denim Council is a non-profit organization whose sole mission is to help create order sanctity. Simply put, we want an agreement from buyers that place orders to simply agree to carry out their commitments, just as they expect the supplier to carry out theirs. Seems simple enough, but it’s not part of our industry. YET.

Sharmon Lebby – Project Manager, Ethical Denim Council

Chana Rosenthal – Denim Industry Advocacy Advisor, Ethical Denim Council

https://www.ethicaldenimcouncil.org/

Bob Antoshak calls himself an Industry Strategist and Policy Expert. I call him an experienced, industry professional having spent chunks of his life on trade policy, cotton marketing, consultancy, and sourcing. Bob’s been where must people never get to.

Bob's LinkedIn profile: https://www.linkedin.com/in/rantoshak/

Adriano Goldschmied is an example for anyone in the denim industry or who aspires to be in it. He is incredibly creative, full of energy day and night, uncommonly hard working and perpetually passionate about his work.

See his projects here:

• geniousgroup.la
• dailybluedenim.com
• houseofgoldusa.com