Ever find yourself struggling with the do’s and don’ts of gray coverage behind the chair? You're not alone—and this episode is packed with the real talk you’ve been craving. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or a curious colorist-in-training, Dustin and I (Melissa!) are diving deep into our biggest pet peeves and must-know strategies when it comes to formulating for gray hair. From over-pigmented formulas to that dreaded “zipper” effect down the part line, we’re breaking down what really works and what doesn’t.

We’re pulling back the curtain on all things gray: resistant strands, ammonia myths, banding, translucency tricks, and how to individualize formulas by zone. We’re also sharing creative ways to blend, soften, and extend gray coverage without going too dark—or too warm. If you’re ready to step off autopilot and into more intentional coloring, this episode is a must-listen.

⏱️ Episode Timeline:

[1:15] - Our gray hair pet peeves

[5:40] - Why translucent coverage can be better than full opacity

[11:30] - The issue with using too much pigment in gray formulas

[16:22] - Understanding how ammonia and alkalinity really affect gray coverage

[23:50] - Why you should treat every part of the head differently

[29:40] - Tips for managing high-contrast hair and gray blending

[36:10] - The “Calico effect” and the dangers of one-size-fits-all formulas

[41:15] -Parting hacks and shape changes to disguise gray regrowth

[48:40] - Wrapping up with ways to reframe client expectations

🔗 Links & Resources:

• Visit hairmdpod.com for free downloads, PDFs, and additional tools for colorists
• Stay tuned for Part 2 of this gray coverage series in our next episode!

💬 Enjoyed this episode?

If you learned something new or felt seen by our salon struggles, do us a favor—share this episode with your stylist friends and leave a rating and review wherever you listen. It helps more colorists like you find the show and level up behind the chair. Thanks for being part of the Hair MD fam!

takeaways

• Navigating the challenges of hair color requires understanding client preferences.
• Translucent coverage can soften the appearance of regrowth.
• Using too much pigment can lead to an unnatural look.
• Gray hair often requires specialized coverage techniques.
• Different hair types may need tailored color formulas.
• Managing client expectations is crucial for satisfaction.
• Lightening dark hair can be complex and requires careful planning.
• Individualized approaches yield better results in hair coloring.
• Spot treatments can be effective for resistant gray hair.
• There is no one-size-fits-all solution in hair coloring.