The Ice Screw Nobody Admitted Losing: Silence on Havelock's Tooth
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The Ice Screw Nobody Admitted Losing: Silence on Havelock's Tooth
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A titanium 22-cm ice screw, carabiner closed and cord cut clean, lay buried on a bone-dry granite slope at 8,200 ft-two thousand feet below the nearest glacier-yet nobody reported it missing. How did a piece of critical climbing protection end up far from any ice, with a cord cut like a knife, and why did three climbers keep silent about what happened next?
In this episode, we follow the July 2011 Havelock's Tooth attempt and the decisions made on the mountain that no official report labeled a crime. The episode covers the climb up the West Face route called the Wrist, the fall at the Knuckle, the ninety seconds the team hung on a single axe, and the discovery by a dog named Beau-so what did each climber choose to say, and what did they leave unsaid?
Person: Alice Cole
Person: Erin Fleming
Person: Paul Hecht
Date: July 10, 2011
Location: Havelock's Tooth, Fenwick Range
- A 22-centimeter titanium ice screw with cord and closed carabiner was found at 8,200 feet on a granite slope.
- The nearest ice (Calloden Glacier) was approximately 2,000 feet above the screw's discovery site.
- The Knuckle is a 40-foot near-vertical wall of water ice that had blocked every serious attempt since 1973.
- On July 10, 2011 the team left the Notch at 2:47 AM with a temperature of -8°C.
- The three climbers hung suspended for roughly 90 seconds after Erin fell and was caught by Screw 2 while Paul arrested the system with one axe.
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