Facing your fears and doing it anyway
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This weeks intro, we discuss facing your fears as a surfer and how to overcome the power of ego especially amongst peers!
Liam then relates the idea of “beginner vs advanced” to what makes more sense - what are you a beginner or advanced at? What have you had more practice at? You might be advanced on the open face but a proper beginner on barrels & airs.
We then get onto recent surfs (of which there have been fewer than we’d like!!)…
Liams couple of recent sessions have involved going out in bigger waves (and how happy he was with the paddle out fitness) and her exploring the FireWire seaside again.
Will reflects on a recent surf trip and a) feeling super grateful to be back and b) falling back in love with the FireWire seaside again - it’s flow speed and release down the line.
Will also talks about getting a mid length board purchase completely wrong! It had too much rocker which weirded out the whole feel of what a mod is meant to create.
Stay stoked guys!
Will & Liam