Location

Monrovia → Ganta → Liberia–Ivory Coast Border Town, Liberia

Episode Notes

In this episode, I finally move on from Monrovia and head deeper into Liberia. What starts as a travel day turns into something much more meaningful. I reflect on meeting Sai Buor Brewer, a Liberian-American librarian who returned to help build schools in rural Liberia, and I follow through on my plan to visit his newest project near Ganta.

Along the way, I experience the rhythm of road travel in Liberia — slow traffic, diesel fumes, friendly police stops, and the ever-present “one-liner” passport logbooks. I tour an impressive school campus, meet professors and librarians shaping the next generation, and even stumble into a chance meeting with overland travelers piloting a three-wheeled vehicle across West Africa.

The day ends at a newly built lagoon hotel near the border — a quiet, thoughtful place that contrasts sharply with the raw hustle of everyday life around it. It’s a full day of movement, people, purpose, and perspective.

Key Moments

00:00 – Moving On I start the day reflecting on November 26th and the feeling that it’s finally time to move on from where I’ve been.

01:10 – Meeting Sai Buor Brewer I talk about meeting Sai Buor Brewer, a librarian who lived in Michigan for years before deciding to return and do something meaningful for Liberia.

03:00 – Building a College in Ganta I explain how Sai founded CLT International and built a college in Ganta, about three to four hours from Monrovia.

04:40 – My Plan to Visit the High School Project I share how our conversation led me to plan a visit to his next project — a high school under construction in Cantu.

06:20 – Life on Liberia’s Roads I describe the slow movement, traffic congestion, and unavoidable diesel fumes that come with road travel here.

08:10 – Police Stops and Border Logbooks I explain how most police stops are friendly and brief, with the familiar “one-liner” passport entry in a big logbook near the border.

10:00 – Finding the School in Ganta I talk about hiring a motorbike rider to escort me to the school, saving time and confusion.

11:30 – Touring the School Campus I describe the school grounds — classrooms, future space for an elementary school, pigs on the property, orange trees, and a sports field.

14:00 – Meeting the Staff I meet the librarian and Jonathan, the economics professor who gives me a full tour and explains how everything works.

16:00 – Unexpected Travelers: Seth and Ollie I recount meeting Seth and Ollie, two overland travelers driving a three-wheeled vehicle through West Africa.

18:10 – An Invitation to Camp at a Waterfall They invite me to camp at a waterfall, but I explain why I had to decline due to my commitment to the school visit.

19:40 – A Three-Wheeler Through Guinea I reflect on how impressive it is that their low-clearance vehicle can handle routes like Guinea.

21:10 – Arrival at the Border Lagoon Hotel I arrive at a new lagoon hotel near the border, owned by the same person as my Monrovia stay.

23:00 – A Hotel Not Officially Open I describe the peaceful setting, the forest views, and how unusual it is to find a place like this in a small border town.

25:00 – Final Reflections I close with thoughts on Liberia’s hustle, what still needs fixing, and gratitude for another unforgettable day on the road.

Location

Monrovia, Liberia

Episode Notes

Today, November 25th, is a very special day for me. It marks 25 years since Suriname became independent from the Netherlands—and it also connects deeply to my own history, because it was on this same date 50 years ago that I left Suriname with the Dutch army.

The day began with breakfast at my hotel, which has become a great place to meet people from all walks of life. I had a meaningful conversation with Todd, a Lutheran missionary who works across Africa supporting leadership development and pastoral training, including efforts to expand seminaries in West Africa.

During breakfast, I received an unexpected text from the Ivory Coast embassy letting me know my visa was ready a day earlier than expected. I headed over, picked it up without any trouble, and reflected briefly on my earlier time in Ivory Coast back in 1973—and how travel logistics always shape where we can and can’t linger.

While walking around the embassy neighborhood, I stumbled upon a university graduation complete with gowns, caps, music, and traffic chaos—one of those spontaneous moments that make travel memorable.

Back at the hotel, I took another swim and later met Tim, an American volunteer who lives in River Cess, Liberia. He shared firsthand insight into daily life there, from unreliable electricity and long travel times to the challenges of bureaucracy, visas, and vehicle registration. His stories echoed many experiences I’ve had myself across Africa—where persistence is essential and sometimes you just pay the price to keep moving forward.

All in all, it was another beautiful, layered day—full of history, people, and perspective. Thanks for being along.

Key Moments & Timestamps

• 00:00 – A meaningful date I reflect on November 25th as both Suriname’s independence day and the anniversary of my departure 50 years ago with the Dutch army.
• 02:10 – Breakfast conversations I meet Todd, a Lutheran missionary working across Africa, focused on leadership development and pastoral training.
• 05:20 – Unexpected visa news I receive a text from the Ivory Coast embassy saying my visa is ready earlier than expected.
• 07:00 – Embassy visit & reflections I pick up my visa and share my past connection to Ivory Coast from 1973.
• 09:30 – A graduation in the streets I stumble upon a university graduation with music, gowns, and traffic chaos.
• 11:30 – A swim and a new conversation Back at the hotel, I swim and meet Tim, an American volunteer living in River Cess.
• 14:00 – Life in River Cess Tim explains daily challenges: travel delays, lack of electricity, generators, and slow infrastructure improvements.
• 17:00 – Bureaucracy, visas, and corruption We talk about vehicle registration issues, visa hassles, and the reality of navigating systems where mistakes—and money—disappear.
• 20:00 – Closing reflection I wrap up the day, reflecting on persistence, movement, and another beautiful day in Africa.

Location Monrovia, Liberia

Episode Notes It’s November 24th, and what should have been a simple errand turned into one of those days that only seems to happen on the road in West Africa. I went into town looking for an ATM that actually worked—no luck. It was Monday, and the weekend had wiped them all out.

I decided to pivot and get a coffee near a big hotel. I parked where I’d parked before without any problems. This time, though, I came back to find a padlock clamped onto my front wheel by private security. I had a choice: pay $80 on the spot or get towed for $250. After some negotiation and finagling, it came down to $60—making that one very expensive coffee.

While all this was happening, a man named Jimmy appeared, watching my truck. He remembered me from Aberdeen in Freetown, days and days of driving away, recognizing me by my orange scarf. That kind of unexpected human connection still amazes me.

On the way back to the hotel, I met Michael, a sincere 25-year-old who wants to attend vocational school but can’t afford it. I paid $60 to help him get started, with plans to possibly support him further once enrollment opens in February. The need here is endless, but helping one person feels meaningful.

As if that wasn’t enough for one day, back at the hotel another guest invited me to his room—to show me gold bars. Actual gold, tied to village mining operations six hours outside Monrovia, involving local chiefs and entire communities. I didn’t buy any, but just being there for that story was surreal.

Life out here keeps getting stranger, richer, and more human by the day.

Key Moments

• 00:00 – Opening / Setting the Day I set the scene: November 24th, heading into town with a simple goal and no idea what the day has in store.
• 01:20 – ATM Hunt in Monrovia I explain trying multiple ATMs, realizing it’s Monday and they’ve all been drained over the weekend.
• 03:10 – The Coffee Decision I decide to get coffee near a large hotel and park where I’ve parked before without trouble.
• 04:30 – The Padlock Surprise I return to my truck and discover a padlock clamped onto the front wheel by private security.
• 06:10 – $80 or $250: The Choice I’m told my options—pay $80 immediately or get towed for $250.
• 07:45 – Negotiating Down to $60 After some back-and-forth, I manage to negotiate the fee down to $60.
• 09:10 – Jimmy Reappears Jimmy shows up to “watch” my truck and recognizes me from Aberdeen in Freetown, days away by road.
• 11:00 – The World Feels Small I reflect on how unlikely it is to be recognized across countries, tied together by an orange scarf.
• 12:30 – Meeting Michael On the way back to the hotel, I meet Michael, a 25-year-old who wants to attend vocational school.
• 14:10 – Helping with School Enrollment I decide to give $60 to help him begin the process, hoping he’ll follow through.
• 15:50 – Breaking Down the Real Costs I explain the vocational school fees: $40 signup, $20 exam, and under $1,000 for a full year.
• 17:20 – The Gold Bar Encounter Back at the hotel, another guest shows me real gold bars connected to village mining operations.
• 19:10 – Closing Reflection I wrap up, reflecting on how the day spiraled from an ATM errand into something far stranger and more meaningful.

Location Monrovia, Liberia (Sherry Beach area)

Episode Notes In this episode, I talk about slowing down in Monrovia and accepting a place for what it offers rather than what I expected it to be. I finally made it to Sherry Beach—a calm, family-oriented spot with palm trees, seating, and lagoon views—perfect for a quiet Sunday walk. Along the way, I stumbled upon the Chinese ambassador’s residence and the Chinese embassy, which connected a few dots about the high-end Chinese restaurant I had visited earlier in my stay.

I reflect on my travel philosophy: I’m not chasing every landmark or highlight. I’m just passing through, observing, and living whatever experiences naturally come my way. That mindset paid off with an incredible pepper fish soup at a lively bar restaurant and a relaxed afternoon back at the hotel pool, full of kids enjoying their Sunday. I also share a bit about getting to know the hotel owner and his plans across borders. It’s a reminder that patience, adaptation, and openness often lead to the best travel moments.

Key Moments

00:00 – I open by sharing my frustration about not having properly made it to the beach yet, even though I can see it from where I’m staying.

01:05 – I decide to take a walk and finally enter Sherry Beach, discovering a quiet, family-oriented spot with palm trees, seating, and calm water.

02:20 – I describe how peaceful the beach feels on a Sunday and how enjoyable it is to simply sit, relax, and take in the view.

03:10 – While walking, I pass a large walled compound and realize it’s the Chinese ambassador’s residence, followed shortly by the Chinese embassy.

04:10 – I connect this to a previous visit to a high-end Chinese restaurant and recall an unusual dinner involving a guarded Liberian group.

05:30 – I reflect on my travel philosophy, explaining why I don’t try to see every highlight and instead live whatever I encounter along the way.

06:45 – On the way back, I stop at a loud bar restaurant and wait for a pepper fish soup that turns out to be absolutely delicious.

07:55 – I talk about how patience and adapting to what’s available leads to great food experiences here.

08:45 – I return to the hotel and observe kids enjoying the swimming pool on a relaxed Sunday afternoon.

09:30 – I share a bit about getting to know the hotel owner and learning about his other hotels at the border and in Ivory Coast.

10:15 – I wrap up the episode, acknowledging that while this wasn’t the plan, it’s been a good experience and I’m ready for what’s next.

Location Monrovia, Liberia — Calabash Hotel Lagoon & Libassa (Lillaby) Eco Lodge and Wildlife Sanctuary

Episode Notes

Good day — November 22nd.

I realized I forgot to record part of the previous evening, which turned out to be worth revisiting. Next door to my hotel is the Calabash Hotel, and behind it sits an enormous lagoon-side space dedicated to karaoke — and not in a small way. You pay $15 to enter, almost entirely handled in U.S. dollars, which are far more practical here than Liberian dollars due to the exchange rate.

The system was simple: the entry fee goes toward food and drinks, and if you order more, you just pay the difference. Prices were reasonable, the selection was wide, and the crowd was incredibly enthusiastic. Performers stayed on stage while the lyrics played, so you could watch both the singers and the words at the same time. It was lively, social, and unexpectedly fun.

The next morning, I ran into Bram again. Even on a Saturday, he was heading out for Ministry of Energy meetings, which struck me as a sign of real motivation. After that, I was on my own and decided to visit Libassa (Lillaby) Eco Lodge, located next to a wildlife sanctuary.

The sanctuary was established after 2016, when animals received protected status. It’s home mostly to monkeys and small antelope, along with a few crocodiles. While the goal is always to release animals back into the wild, many can’t survive on their own — including one blind crocodile — so the sanctuary becomes their permanent home.

At the time, it was being run by a Belgian couple: she’s the veterinarian, he’s the director. I also met a wildlife veterinarian from Malawi who is taking over, and a Belgian veterinary student doing a short placement. We all ended up sitting together at the eco lodge, sharing food and conversation, which made the visit even more meaningful.

The lodge itself is beautiful — right on the beach, with multiple swimming pools because the ocean can be dangerous. Seasonality plays a big role here, with strong dry seasons and very quiet wet ones, yet this lodge stays open year-round. It was educational, relaxing, and deeply connected to conservation.

Back at my hotel later, I spoke with the owner about future travel toward Abidjan and adjusting plans while waiting on visas. All in all, it was one of those days that perfectly captures why I travel.

Key Moments

00:00 – Realizing I forgot to record the previous evening

01:10 – Discovering lagoon-side karaoke at the Calabash Hotel

03:05 – Why U.S. dollars dominate daily life in Liberia

05:00 – Food, drinks, and high-energy karaoke performances

07:30 – Running into Bram and Saturday government work

09:15 – Deciding to visit Libassa (Lillaby) Eco Lodge

11:10 – Touring the wildlife sanctuary and meeting the animals

14:20 – Conversations with veterinarians and conservation workers

17:30 – Lunch and deeper talks at the eco lodge

20:40 – Eco-tourism seasons and year-round operations

23:10 – Beach dangers and why pools matter

25:00 – Travel plans toward Abidjan amid visa delays

27:20 – Reflections and sign-off

📍 Location

Monrovia, Liberia — Embassy of Ivory Coast & Royal Grand Hotel

📝 Episode Notes

In today’s episode, I walk you through an unexpected twist in my Liberia journey. I headed back to the Ivory Coast Embassy to figure out why I never received the call I was promised — and ended up learning more about embassy protocol, long pants etiquette, and the joys of finding good coffee in Monrovia.

From navigating Liberian country codes on an American phone, to negotiating with a security guard who had suddenly discovered a dress code, to finding out my visa would take another three to five days, the day wasn’t what I expected. But I made the best of it: a cappuccino break at the Royal Grand Hotel, a chance encounter with an NGO worker, and a conversation with my hotel’s owner that opened up possibilities for the journey ahead.

I may be stuck somewhere I wasn’t planning to stay, but I’m rolling with it — and sharing the ride with you.

🗝️ Key Moments

00:42 — Trying to get into the embassy & confusion over calling a Liberian number

02:10 — Security guard refuses me entry because I’m wearing shorts

03:00 — Changing into long pants out of respect and finally getting inside 04:25 — Learning my call was made… just to the wrong number

05:05 — Paying the $120 visa fee without another bank run

06:02 — The disappointing news: the 3–5 day wait starts today

07:18 — Processing the delay and deciding not to burn bridges

08:00 — Escaping to the Royal Grand Hotel for a much-needed cappuccino

09:15 — Meeting a Mercy Corps worker and reflecting on NGO presence in Liberia

10:10 — Re-booking a smaller room at my hotel and chatting with the owner

11:05 — Ending the day accepting the delay and making the best of where I am

Location

Monrovia, Liberia

Episode Notes

On this Thursday, November 20th, I found myself waiting for a call that never came—from the Ivory Coast embassy. I had expected some clarity on my visa situation, but instead I spent most of the day wandering around the hotel and taking in a few local sights.

What truly defined the day, though, was an unexpected connection at breakfast. I ended up sitting next to a Dutch guy named Bram—one of those chance travel encounters that turn into something far more interesting than you expect. We started talking, and before long I learned he works for PowerGen Renewable Energy, helping set up off-grid power systems across Africa. He’s been in Congo, Sierra Leone, and now Liberia, laying the groundwork for new renewable energy projects.

His stories about bringing electricity to remote communities, navigating government bureaucracy, and trying to get major projects funded were fascinating. We continued our conversation over dinner at a Chinese restaurant filled with private rooms and oversized portions. It felt surreal and very “Africa”—in the best way.

Bram lives in Kenya with his wife and daughter; his wife works for Afripads in Uganda, a company making essential female hygiene products. Hearing how they both contribute to meaningful work around the continent was inspiring—and a reminder of how many incredible people you meet when you’re simply open to conversation.

These are the moments that make travel so rewarding. Even on a day when nothing goes according to plan, you can stumble into stories that open your world.

See you tomorrow.

Key Moments

• 00:00 — Waiting for the embassy call: I share how I expected to hear from the Ivory Coast embassy but never did.
• 02:10 — Slow day at the hotel: I talk about passing time, wandering around, and keeping things low-key.
• 03:35 — Meeting Bram by chance at breakfast: I explain how I sat next to a Dutch guy without knowing who he was.
• 05:10 — Learning about his work in renewable energy: I describe how he helps build off-grid power systems in Congo, Sierra Leone, and Liberia.
• 08:00 — Dinner at a Chinese restaurant full of private rooms: I recount our fascinating dinner and the oversized dishes.
• 10:20 — Challenges of energy development in Africa: I reflect on his stories about financing, government hurdles, and refusing corruption.
• 12:15 — His life in Kenya with his wife and daughter: I share how both he and his wife contribute to meaningful work across Africa.
• 14:00 — Why chance encounters on the road mean so much: I close with how these small moments make travel more meaningful.

📍 Location

Monrovia, Liberia — November 19

📝 Episode Notes

Today I set out with the idea that I’d check out the Diana Hotel and then head straight to the Ivory Coast embassy to pick up my visa and continue my journey. Simple plan — or so I thought.

On the way there, I had to detour around a fallen tree someone was clearing from the road, but that was easy enough. Once I got to the embassy, they went through my paperwork: the application, my reasons for traveling, the passport photo — all in order. But then came the question that mattered: When will the visa be ready?

The answer—three to five days—hit me like a flat tire. I had been counting on walking out with the visa today. The woman behind the counter softened it a bit, saying maybe later today or maybe tomorrow morning. I guess I’ll find out soon enough. Out here, you really just have to go with the flow.

After that, I had to take care of the money side of things. Wise.com continues to be a lifesaver, letting me access funds pretty much anywhere. Getting that sorted meant navigating through big, crowded market streets — the stop-and-go rhythm of Monrovia.

Along the way I spotted a hotel called Triss Estates. “Triss” reminded me of Suriname, where I served with the troops, so that gave me a little smile. I eventually found another place — Laguna a la Laguna Hotel — complete with a pool and a well-run vibe. That’s where I’ll stay tonight… hopefully just for one night.

And before wrapping up the day, there was dinner at Linda’s house. She served an African dish they called a soup, though it definitely wasn’t a soup in my book — mostly meats mixed with a green vegetable that comes with rice, and hardly any liquid. But that’s the pattern with a lot of dishes I’ve had across Africa: rice paired with vegetables and meat, stretching what’s available.

Thanks for coming along with me today. We’ll see what tomorrow brings.

⏱️ Key Moments

• 00:10 – Starting the Day at the Diana Hotel: Planning for a quick visa pickup.
• 00:40 – Detour Around a Fallen Tree: A small taste of daily unpredictability.
• 01:20 – Embassy Reality Check: Paperwork accepted, but the visa won’t be ready for 3–5 days.
• 02:10 – Adjusting Expectations: Hoping for “maybe later today… or tomorrow morning.”
• 02:40 – Handling Money Needs: Using Wise.com while navigating busy market streets.
• 03:20 – Spotting Triss Estates: A surprise reminder of Suriname.
• 03:50 – Finding Laguna a la Laguna Hotel: New place for the night, complete with a pool.
• 04:30 – Dinner at Linda’s House: A hearty African “soup” with rice, greens, and mixed meats.
• 05:20 – Signing Off: Ending the day with appreciation and uncertainty about tomorrow’s plan.