Have you heard of Zombie Cells? Senescent cells are real, but the skincare claims built around them are often way more terrifying than the science supports. This week in the Science Salon, Sadie and Nat unpack the spooky truth behind these dormant skin cells.

The scariest thing might be all the new vocab words. This week we discuss telomeres and apoptosis and explain how UV damage and stress fit into the story. You’ll hear how certain ingredients are being sold as senolytics, and why the jump from petri dish results to real-world skin benefits is a much bigger leap than brands want you to think. This week we help you understand why these “zombie cells” are suddenly everywhere in anti-aging marketing.

We also dig into the products making the loudest promises like Peach and Lily’s Zombie Cream featuring DSM’s Eterwell™ Youth. We dive into the studies, including the in vitro, ex vivo, and human data behind the ingredient claims. We press on the details that matter most: sample size, placebo controls, concentration, and whether the marketing is really about science or just smart wording. The conversation also gets into why hydration ingredients like glycerin may be doing more of the visible heavy lifting than the “zombie cell” story.

We are chatting about:

Why senescent cells are called zombie cells

How telomeres and cellular damage push skin cells toward senescence or apoptosis

What DSM claims about targeted apoptosis and collagen support

Where the evidence is strong, where it gets fuzzy, and where brand marketing starts to overreach

Why a $435 serum with a confusing ingredient deck is not automatically worth your money

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Questions About Your Cosmetics? Call NOW!

(801) 901-3804

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Your Appointment Includes:

00:00 Spooky October intro

01:00 What zombie cells are and why they matter

03:12 How cells age and lose communication

05:55 Telomeres, cell division, and senescence

07:26 Senescence versus apoptosis

09:36 What triggers senescence besides telomere shortening

10:28 Why senescent cells can still be useful

12:45 How senescent cells may spread damage

13:46 Zombie cell skincare marketing

14:27 Peach & Lily Zombie Cream and its price

16:00 Eterwell™ Youth and supplier claims

18:15 What DSM says the ingredient does

21:02 Lab testing, petri dishes, and skin samples

23:28 Human study results and their limitations

26:16 Why formulation matters

27:01 Glycerin, hydration, and the formula’s effects

29:10 Prescription Skin Care and brand naming

34:27 The Nescens Zombie Cell Clearing Serum and its price point

38:39 The ingredient list and marketing claims

41:07 Is zombie skincare legit?

43:09 Aging, anti-aging pressure, and the closing message

We are kicking off Spooky Season the scariest way we know how! Beauty misinformation is more than annoying, it shapes what people buy, believe, and do with their skin. In this episode, Sadie and Nat break down some of the most persistent beauty myths, from chemical sunscreen fears and “reef-safe” claims to oral sunscreen supplements, preservative misinformation, and the ways AI and sensational headlines can distort scientific evidence.The hosts recap the Truth and Beauty eSummit from The Eco Well, exploring how emotional marketing, cherry-picked studies, and the attention economy help beauty misinformation spread. They discuss why chemical sunscreens are often unfairly villainized, why sunscreen supplements probably aren’t the safer shortcut they sound like, and why “reef-safe” is more of an unregulated marketing claim and less of a scientific guarantee.From sunscreen myths to fear-based beauty marketing, this conversation looks at the real-world consequences of misinformation and offers a more thoughtful way to evaluate skincare claims. If you’re interested in skincare, cosmetic chemistry, sunscreen, or making sense of beauty science, this episode is for you.Grab a seat, we are chatting about: The Importance of Science CommunicationThe financial problem behind beauty researchWhy the term “chemical sunscreen” can sound scarier than the evidence suggestsWhat to consider when evaluating sunscreen claimsWhy sunscreen and coral reef headlines can leave out important contextHow AI search results can amplify low-quality or misleading scienceWhy preservatives matter for cosmetic safetyHow science, art, and aspiration shape the beauty marketQuestions to ask when deciding who to trust, and what they might gain from your beliefThe importance of source vettingWelcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.Questions About Your Cosmetics? Call NOW! (801) 901-3804Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.www.beautyxbeaker.comJoin us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!@beautyxbeaker@natbxb@sadiebxbContact us at info@beautyxbeaker.comSpecial thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.Key Sources: Truth In Beauty eSummit Replayhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpiU8-a9RIo&t=19023s&list=PLV7JqwvL7SSsYciULwVUZuYwXPZybUDHNMore Info on the eSummithttps://www.theecowell.com/truth-in-beauty-esummit

This week is all about scalp health. Your itchy, flaky scalp might not be dandruff, and using the wrong treatment could make it worse. In this episode of Beauty by the Beaker, cosmetic chemists Sadie and Natalie explain the difference between dry scalp, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis, plus how to choose a smarter next step.

Learn how scalp oil, aka sebum, and the yeast Malassezia are connected to dandruff and why itching can start before flakes appear. Not all scalp issues are microbial, and this week we discuss how clues like flake texture, redness, your environment, and hair-washing habits may help you understand what’s going on. What makes this distinction important? We explain why dry scalp and dandruff typically call for opposite approaches.

This episode covers the scalp microbiome (and its limited research), over-the-counter dandruff shampoo ingredients, and how treatments such as pyrithione zinc, salicylic acid, selenium sulfide, sulfur, and ketoconazole work. Find out why some ingredients target fungal overgrowth while others help loosen and break up flakes. Learn how to properly use these products, and why letting dandruff shampoo sit on your scalp for a few minutes can matter.

If you’re wondering whether to use a gentle hydrating shampoo, an anti-dandruff treatment, or scalp oil, this practical scalp-care guide can help you avoid common mistakes. Understand when cautious trial and error may be reasonable and when it’s best to see a dermatologist. Remember if your scalp is painful, very inflamed, or symptoms are spreading, it’s best to skip the headache and see a professional for a diagnosis.

Disclaimer: This episode is for educational purposes and isn’t a substitute for medical advice or a diagnosis from a healthcare professional.

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Questions About Your Cosmetics? Call NOW!

(801) 901-3804

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Timestamps

(0:00) Welcome back to Beauty by the Beaker

(2:02) Why scalp care is suddenly everywhere

(3:42) What the scalp actually is

(4:08) Hair follicles, sebum, and scalp structure

(4:34) Why do humans have so many scalp follicles

(7:24) The scalp microbiome and Malassezia

(8:38) How microbial balance affects dandruff

(9:05) What dandruff is and why it itches

(10:05) Why itching can appear before flakes

(10:28) Dry scalp versus dandruff

(12:08) How to spot the difference by flakes and symptoms

(13:26) When to see a dermatologist

(13:54) Gentle shampoos and scalp serums for dryness

(14:51) FDA rules for dandruff treatment products

(15:44) Ingredients used in anti-dandruff products

(16:19) Why Nizoral and Differin are special

(17:29) Pyrithione zinc and how it reduces dandruff

(18:26) Salicylic acid and flake removal

(19:19) Why dandruff often needs ongoing management

(19:45) Seborrheic dermatitis and where it can show up

(20:50) Psoriasis treatment options and red flags

(21:18) Why washing less is not always better

(22:20) When trial and error is okay, and when to seek help

(23:21) Rosemary oil and scalp problems

(24:51) Final recap and takeaways

Every once in a while we see pH marketed on labels, but most people have no idea what it actually means - and that confusion is exactly why it has the opportunity to become such a powerful buzzword. If you’ve ever wondered whether “pH balanced” skincare or hair care is worth paying more for, this episode breaks down the science in a way that finally makes sense.

This week we are discussing the power of Hydrogen, and we are doing it in some very conceptual and possibly less than scientific ways. We explain what the pH is, what the scale is based on, and how a tiny shift can represent a 10x change in hydrogen ion concentration. That definitely matters as a chemist when we are formulating products that touch your skin, hair, or scalp, but does it matter as a consumer?

This week you'll discover:

Why pH is logarithmic, and why that makes a difference between pH of 5 and 7 much more significant than it sounds

Where common substances like lemon juice, vinegar, shampoo, skin, soap, and oven cleaner fall on the scale

Why the acid mantle matters for skin health, dryness, and barrier function

When pH really does matter in cleansing, and when it’s mostly a marketing distraction

How acids, surfactants, and product formulas actually behave in water and on skin

Why certain shampoo studies and “low pH” marketing can be misleading, and why formulators already account for these details so consumers usually don’t have to.

The different role of pH in cleansers versus acids like AHAs, BHAs, and functional other skincare ingredients.

If you are curious about how the pH scale works, and why it's important in skincare but don’t have a background in chemistry, this episode is for you.

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Questions About Your Cosmetics? Call NOW!

(801) 901-3804

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

When it comes to curls there is a lot of misinformation, and this week we are setting the record straight. Natalie and Sadie, cosmetic formulation chemists are covering the 3 main misconceptions when it comes to curly hair, and explaining why you might not be treating your hair right. We break down why curl type is a weak predictor of what your hair actually needs, why “wash less” is not universal, and why products do not magically change your curl pattern.

Starting with the origins of curl typing, including its uncomfortable ties to racial classification and the later Andre Walker system that still dominates online charts today. We show why two people with the same curl label can need completely different routines depending on porosity, elasticity, thickness, product load, and how much manipulation their hair gets.

This week we learn:

Why curl typing can be useful for estimating shrinkage and gel-cast behavior, but not for choosing products

Why scalp oil, sweat, climate, and product buildup matter more than curl pattern when deciding wash frequency

How hydrogen bonds and disulfide bonds actually shape what your hair does—and what heat, bleaching, and chemical services can permanently change

Why wet styling, gentle handling, and the right level of hold can enhance your natural pattern without “creating” new curls

We also get into the wavy-versus-curly debate, the fear around brushing dry hair, and the beauty-industry habit of turning pseudoscience into product advice. If you’ve ever been told your hair routine “has” to be done a certain way because of your curl type, this episode gives you permission to stop following rules that do not fit your hair.

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Questions About Your Cosmetics? Call NOW!

(801) 901-3804

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

It’s the first official episode of season 2, and we are going to be trying something a little bit different. Mostly because we want to talk about beauty science you are actually interested in, but also because our lives have been a bit crazy, and we needed another week of chatting to give us more time for research. Since we want to give you the most accurate and easy to understand information we possibly can, we typically have to spend a LOT of time researching for each episode, but we only want to do that for topics you have questions about! This week we are telling you the topics we think are HOT in the beauty industry, and giving you a little insider information on why we think they are worth diving into. If any of today's topics interest you, make sure to comment so we know where to start!

We are cosmetic formulation chemists, and today in the science salon we are covering makeup myths, over(or under)hyped ingredients, laser and light treatments, and so much more!

Red Light Therapy: It might sound like bologna, but this might actually work! Of course, not all red lights are created equal. As it turns out the wavelength, dosage, and treatment practices can all play a role in the type of benefits you might get from this therapy.

Peptides: What are these, and what are they doing? Well, that's not such an easy question to answer. What’s actually coming in that unlabeled bottle you bought online?

Niacinamide: This ingredient may be too common to care about. This vitamin is found in many cosmetics, but is it actually doing anything? Experts are ditching it, and we want to know why.

Hyaluronic Acid: Or is it Sodium Hyaluronate? What used to be the gold standard for skin hydration has taken somewhat of a fall from grace. So is there a more reliable alternative?

Pet Cosmetics: Pet grooming aids like shampoo are not regulated by the FDA, so how do you know what's safe to use on our pets? Find out what the people who formulate these products think about the difference in regulation, and similarity to human products.

‘Toxic’ Ingredients: It's no secret that the EU has banned more cosmetic ingredients than we have in the USA, but is there actually a difference in what is being used in products? We want to dive into the common misconception that your products contain harmful ingredients.

Benzene: Did someone say harmful ingredients? This is a known human carcinogen, but the problem probably isn’t cosmetics. We want to dive into why this keeps making its way into the spotlight, and what risk it actually poses.

In Office Treatments: Are these worth the money? And what can these do that topical cosmetics can’t? We have talked about light, so what about lasers? Should we swap notes with a dermatologist?

Specialized Cosmetics: Are these brands filling a hole in the market, or are they just finding creative new ways to take your money. Sometimes products that you don’t understand are not made for you, but other times there are much cheaper and well studied alternatives for treating actual medical issues. We are giving you a sneak peak at one cosmetic that we find extra audacious.

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Questions About Your Cosmetics? Call NOW!

(801) 901-3804

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Happy Birthday BXB!!! This week we are celebrating 1 year of the podcast by reflecting on some of the epic highs and lows of the past, and setting some new expectations for the future. We discuss the unexpected struggles of co-hosting a beauty science podcast, and the desire to stop the spread of misinformation while still appealing to a large audience… which we unfortunately haven’t done yet after a year… but we aren’t ready to stop trying! And although small, we talk about how positive the feedback on the show has been, especially from the people we were most afraid of judgement from. This episode is extra sappy as we reflect on some amazing industry connections we have made, the milestones we have crossed.

We are diving into one of our most asked questions - how do we have a high quality production without making any money? And Natalie is making a (not so) strict rule on who is NOT invited to the salon.

Stick around for a new exciting update you’re not going to want to miss!

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Summer isn’t over yet! We have stressed the importance of sunscreen, but how does the sun affect your hair? In this episode we are breaking down the science of UV damage, visible light, melanin, and why some hair fades or weakens faster in the sun. Have you ever wondered if your hair needs sunscreen? Tune in, this episode is for you.

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

In this episode we cover:

How UV light damages hair structure

Why visible light affects hair color

The difference between eumelanin and pheomelanin

Why blonde, bleached, and damaged hair is more vulnerable

Hair protection tips, including hats, scarves, and leave-on products

What to look for in hair UV protectants

Whether you’re looking for science-backed hair care tips, summer hair protection advice, or a deeper understanding of UV and visible light damage, this episode has you covered.

Timestamps

00:00 - Why nobody talks about sun damage to hair

01:40 - Summer, UV index, and the episode’s main question

02:40 - Valerie George’s UV damage lecture as the key reference

04:37 - Hair structure refresher: cuticle, cortex, and medulla

05:42 - Why disulfide bonds matter for hair strength

06:38 - UV light and visible light as the two main forms of damage

07:19 - How melanin protects hair from sunlight

08:41 - Eumelanin vs pheomelanin and why hair color varies

09:33 - Why lighter hair usually fades and damages faster

11:59 - Why eumelanin protects better from UV than pheomelanin

13:09 - Study findings: blonde hair vs dark hair in sunlight

15:45 - UV damage vs visible light damage in hair

17:39 - The chocolate chip cookie analogy for melanin damage

18:07 - Why humidity accelerates sun damage

19:09 - Leave-on products vs rinse-off protection

19:31 - Why hair SPF is not regulated like skin SPF

20:55 - How hair protection is tested and why it is hard to prove

21:15 - Why formulators need special ingredients to help filters stick

22:20 - Why hats and scarves are the best protection

23:37 - Where to find the hosts’ product recommendations and episode notes

25:14 - Closing advice: protect your hair from the sun

#HairCare #UVDamage #SunscreenForHair #HairProtection #BeautyScience #CosmeticChemistry #SunDamage #BlondeHair #HairScience #BeautyByTheBeaker