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  • 7 - The Discovery of Witches Finger
    2025/06/11

    Sometimes big risks have big rewards; Most of the time they have big consequences. How does a dice roll land in the desert of Morocco?

    Find out in this week's note.

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    18 分
  • 6 - Bookends
    2025/06/04

    Two days ago an old dude, at least 60 years old, paddled out at dusk. It was already too dark to see sets on the horizon.

    Why did he do it?

    We'll never know, but this short note might help us make sense of it all.

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    2 分
  • 5 - Chasing Barrels in Vietnam
    2025/05/28

    Is it possible to get barreled in Vietnam?

    After several visits I still don't know what to make of surfing in the South China Sea. I've left the water feeling exalted from super fun sessions, and also dejected from total let downs.

    This week's episode combines a few of my notes to share the my surfing experience in Nam.

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    21 分
  • 4 - Small Purchase, Big Mistake
    2025/05/21

    A wetsuit is a very personal item for a surfer. If you've ever surfed cold water you know how wonderful a good one can be. What happens when you buy a wetsuit from an online vendor in Vietnam? Listen to find out in this week's note.

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    8 分
  • 3 - The Morning Calibration
    2025/05/14

    I like the early morning surf session for many reasons: less crowds, watching the sunrise, a bit of peace before the day really starts... but there's more to it.

    How does dawn patrol consistently change the outcome of my day?

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    21 分
  • 2 - Sugar On My Tongue
    2025/05/07

    When I was living off coconut biscuits in the Philippines, I had an epiphany... this short note has only grown sweet with time.

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    1 分
  • 1 - The Buzzer Beater
    2025/04/30

    This note comes from a session at one of the best right-hand point breaks in Morocco. As a goofy footer, the right handers of Morocco are backside for me, adding an extra layer of challenge on the deeper, more critical takeoffs...

    Do I go down in flames or rise up like a phoenix from the ashes?

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    5 分
  • Introduction: Reading A Surfer's Notebook
    2025/04/28

    This quick introduction will give you a little bit of context before you dive into the mind of surfer via his notebook. Listen to this episode to see what you're in for.

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    3 分