『A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves』のカバーアート

A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves

A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves

著者： Dave
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Join Dave, a surfer who's spent years traveling the world, living the surf-optimized life. "A Surfer's Notebook" is his collection of true stories and personal reflections from that journey. Beyond perfect waves, Dave shares insights on surf culture, analyzes interesting breaks, describes unforgettable characters, and explores the unexpected connections he's found along the way – from the physics of a wave to the flexibility of a foot.Dave 社会科学
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  • 28 - Tipping Point

    28 - Tipping Point
    2025/11/05

    Once I knew what to look for I started recognizing tipping points everywhere. I found the first one on the mountainside in rural Japan but realized I'd experienced one just a few days earlier in the water, during the height of the typhoon swell. Both were tests I'd have to face on my own.

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    17 分
  • 27 - Miyazaki By Van

    27 - Miyazaki By Van
    2025/10/29

    What's it like to live in the "Wave Hunter" and surf typhoon swells in Japan? Follow the ups and downs of this eventful week on the Miyazaki coast.

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    54 分
  • 26 - Planting The Seed

    26 - Planting The Seed
    2025/10/22

    Today we are kicking of the Japan series... which includes multiple notes from my extended stay and extensive search for surf in Japan. This first note covers how I came to decide that spending several months in Japan to find my stoke would be a good idea...

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    23 分
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