『A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves』のカバーアート

A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves

A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves

著者： Dave
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 Join Dave, a surfer who's spent years traveling the world, living the surf-optimized life. "A Surfer's Notebook" is his collection of true stories and personal reflections from that journey. Beyond perfect waves, Dave shares insights on surf culture, analyzes interesting breaks, describes unforgettable characters, and explores the unexpected connections he's found along the way – from the physics of a wave to the flexibility of a foot.Dave 社会科学
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  • 7 - The Discovery of Witches Finger

    7 - The Discovery of Witches Finger
    2025/06/11

    Sometimes big risks have big rewards; Most of the time they have big consequences. How does a dice roll land in the desert of Morocco?

    Find out in this week's note.

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    18 分
  • 6 - Bookends

    6 - Bookends
    2025/06/04

    Two days ago an old dude, at least 60 years old, paddled out at dusk. It was already too dark to see sets on the horizon.

    Why did he do it?

    We'll never know, but this short note might help us make sense of it all.

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    2 分
  • 5 - Chasing Barrels in Vietnam

    5 - Chasing Barrels in Vietnam
    2025/05/28

    Is it possible to get barreled in Vietnam?

    After several visits I still don't know what to make of surfing in the South China Sea. I've left the water feeling exalted from super fun sessions, and also dejected from total let downs.

    This week's episode combines a few of my notes to share the my surfing experience in Nam.

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    21 分

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