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  • Jicky by Guerlain: The First Modern Perfume
    2026/09/11

    Thirty-two years before Chanel No. 5, Aimé Guerlain built a perfume almost entirely out of things that didn't exist in nature: synthetic coumarin and vanillin, layered over jasmine, civet, and tonka bean. This episode tells the story of Jicky, Guerlain's 1889 fragrance including the disputed origin of its name, what its reception actually was versus the folklore version, and the quadrilobe bottle that keeps getting confused with Guerlain's more famous bees. More on the Empress who came before Jicky, over on the Substack at thefragrancememoir.substack.com.


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