Vézelay: The Basilica of Saint Mary Magdalene - Burgundy's Sacred Hilltop Pilgrimage
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In this episode of Walking Tour of France, we climb the Eternal Hill of Vézelay in Burgundy to explore the Basilica of Saint Mary Magdalene - one of the greatest Romanesque churches in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We trace the basilica's origins from a 9th-century Benedictine monastery to its peak as one of medieval Christianity's most important pilgrimage destinations, a starting point for the route to Santiago de Compostela and the site where crusades were launched. Along the way, we examine the extraordinary tympanum sculpture above the central portal of the narthex, walk the striped Romanesque nave with its hundred carved capitals, and step into the Gothic choir where the light transforms the space entirely. We explore the deliberate solar design that creates a path of light along the nave floor at the summer solstice, and recount the 19th-century restoration that saved the building from collapse - work carried out by a young architect who would go on to restore Notre-Dame de Paris. For dining, we cover Restaurant la Terrasse for terrace meals with a basilica view, Le Cheval Blanc for traditional Burgundian cuisine, Le Relais du Morvan for grilled meats and regional warmth, and Le P'tit V for local wines and cheese. We also highlight nearby destinations including the Gothic church and Roman baths in the village of Saint-Pere, the medieval fortified town of Avallon, the Morvan Regional Natural Park, and the Cistercian abbey of Fontenay.
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