The Screw That Fell Three Thousand Feet and Didn't Break
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The Screw That Fell Three Thousand Feet and Didn't Break
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Fear and relief meet on a ridge: a titanium ice screw with yellow tape fell roughly three thousand vertical feet from where it was last seen-and whatever caught it kept three climbers alive. How did a hundred-millimeter screw, photographed on a granite shelf at 9,200 feet, become the single element that decided survival on Crevasse Peak?
In this episode, you’ll hear the sequence of decisions, timings, and placements over two days on a northwest couloir at seventy degrees that led to a fifteen-second window where one choice held. The narrative follows the three climbers, the route they chose, and the odd geometry of a screw found wedged in granite-what did that screw’s condition and placement really mean for the accident report’s conclusion?
Person: Amanda Anderson
Person: Amy Smith
Person: Sandra Fitzgerald
Person: Patrick Oakes
Location: Crevasse Peak, northwest couloir
- Date of initial climb departure: July 12, 2009, trailhead leave at 04:00.
- Elevation where object was found: 9,200 feet on western moraine.
- Peak elevation: 12,400 feet with a northwest couloir crux rated ice grade 4.
- Ice screw specifics: titanium, 100 millimeters long, loop of yellow electrical tape through its eye, no rust or deformation.
- Timing detail: the crux band reached at 11:15 on July 12 after leaving at 04:00, with a planned 48-hour weather window and six hours of schedule margin.
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