In this episode of Walking Tour of France, we explore the Abbaye de Saint-Gilles - a remarkable Romanesque abbey church tucked away in the town of Saint-Gilles in the Gard department of southern France, midway between Nimes and Arles. Though little-known to modern travelers, this site was once one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in the medieval world, ranked fourth in all of Christendom behind Jerusalem, Rome, and Santiago de Compostela. We walk through the extraordinary three-portal facade - a masterpiece of 12th-century Romanesque sculpture featuring a continuous narrative frieze of the Passion of Christ, apostle statues, and intricate scenes from the life of Jesus - and descend into the remarkable 11th-century crypt where the tomb of Saint Gilles still stands. We explore the legendary spiral staircase known as the Vis de Saint-Gilles, long studied and admired by master stonemasons on their apprenticeship tours of France. Along the way, we trace the legend of how the abbey was founded, the extraordinary pilgrimage culture it supported for centuries, and the violence and reconstruction that shaped the building you see today.

For dining, we mention the Domaine du Prieuré d'Estagel restaurant and the Café de la Gare for a casual lunch. Nearby sites covered include the walled city of Aigues-Mortes, the Camargue Natural Regional Park, and the Roman monuments of Nimes.

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