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Maine's Damariscotta River has been producing oysters for thousands of years. The shell middens that line its banks — some rising 31 vertical feet — are evidence that Native Americans were harvesting here at commercial scale long before lobstering, clamming, or any other fishery Maine is known for. David Cheney farms 650 feet from the largest of them, and he'll tell you that's all the science he needs.
In this episode of Rising Tides, Bill Perna speaks with David Cheney, founder of Johns River Oyster, about a life spent entirely in and on the water — digging clams commercially from fourth grade, lobstering out of New Harbor for sixteen years, and ultimately building one of Maine's more distinctive oyster operations from the ground up.
David's farm runs across two sites: oysters are started in the nutrient-rich, fast-growing waters of the upper Damariscotta River, then relayed twenty-two miles to Johns River — where he grew up — to finish in higher-salinity water that hardens the shell and produces what he calls a clean finish. His Whaleback oysters are named for the shell midden on whose doorstep he farms.
Their conversation covers the economics of leaving lobstering behind, the science of oyster flavour and terroir, what warming waters mean for the species that can thrive on Maine's coast, and why David believes aquaculture here is still just the beginning.
Perna Content's Rising Tides explores how coastal Maine is adapting to environmental, economic, and cultural change through long-form conversations with people working on and alongside the water. New episodes are released fortnightly.
The podcast accompanies the book Rising Tides: Adapting to Maine’s Coastal Future, available at www.pernacontent.com/publishing