Mara Jane King on Chinese traditions, culinary imperialism and food safety
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In this episode of the Fermenters Guild podcast, host Robin speaks with chef and fermentation specialist Mara Jane King about her incredible travels through southwestern China to document ancient, often overlooked food practices for her documentary, The People's Republic of Fermentation. Accompanied by her mother and renowned expert Sandor Katz, Mara ventured deep into Yunnan and Sichuan to learn from local artisans.
Beyond her travels, Mara sheds light on the historical biases shaping modern culinary science. She offers a surprising critique of the global obsession with koji, explaining how its dominance stems from Japanese culinary imperialism that has historically overshadowed the wild mold-based traditions of neighboring Asian cultures. The conversation also tackles the coded racism embedded in Western food safety regulations, specifically highlighting the UK’s culturally biased fixation on Bacillus cereus and reheated rice. Ultimately, Mara and host Robin expose how prejudice and arbitrary value judgments dictate which cuisines are elevated, policed, or ignored in the modern culinary world.
Mara & Sandor's documentary film, People's Republic of Fermentation, is available to watch on Youtube for free. You can follow Mara on Instagram
Hosted by Robin Sherriff.
Original music & editing by David Craigie.