Step onto one of the most extraordinary public spaces in Europe: the Renaissance city walls of Lucca, a 4.2-kilometer loop of ancient brick and earth that has circled this Tuscan city since the 16th century. In this episode, we walk the full circuit of the walls from Porta Santa Maria, exploring how a small republic spent 140 years building the finest fortifications of their age - and never had to use them in battle. Along the way, we uncover the engineering genius behind the massive earthen bastions, hear how the walls saved the city from a catastrophic flood in 1812, and discover how a military installation became the beloved living room of an Italian city.

We also recommend where to eat nearby: Pizzeria da Felice, a century-old institution serving pizza and cecina by weight; Ristorante Mecenate, a traditional Lucchese trattoria with exceptional seasonal cuisine; and Giglio, a Michelin-starred restaurant set in an 18th-century palazzo. For those planning to explore more of the city, we highlight the nearby Torre Guinigi with its rooftop oak garden, the elliptical Piazza dell'Anfiteatro built on the foundations of a Roman arena, and Pisa - just 20 minutes by train - with the famous Leaning Tower and the magnificent Piazza dei Miracoli.

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