What is Rioja? (EP 31)
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Sell a bottle of Gran Reserva Rioja before its fifth birthday and the region will fine you. Rioja is a wine denomination in northern Spain, strung along the Ebro across some 65,000 hectares of La Rioja, Basque Álava and a corner of Navarra, overwhelmingly red, overwhelmingly Tempranillo, and built around a legal promise that somebody already did the aging for you. It became Spain's first Denominación de Origen in 1925.
In this episode, Marti Buckley explains how phylloxera in France sent Bordeaux merchants south in the 1860s carrying small barrels and long aging, why traditional Rioja tastes how it does, what crianza, reserva and gran reserva guarantee by law, and how a wave of growers pushing single-vineyard and village wines is rewriting a hundred-year-old system that has only ever measured time in oak.
If you want more about Spain: ∙ Subscribe to Marti's Substack at https://substack.com/@martibuckley ∙ Follow her on Instagram @martibuckley ∙ Visit her blog at travelcookeat.com