There is a monastery in Armenia where, on a clear morning, you can see Mount Ararat rising across the horizon — the mountain on Armenia's national emblem, the mountain Noah's Ark is said to have landed on, sitting entirely inside Turkey since 1921. Armenians wake up every day and see their most sacred symbol on the wrong side of a closed, hostile border.

Armenia was the first nation on Earth to adopt Christianity as its state religion, in 301 CE. In 405 CE, a monk named Mesrop Mashtots invented an alphabet that would keep Armenian identity alive through fifteen centuries without a state.

Ray takes you through the ancient kingdom of Urartu, the golden age of the Bagratuni dynasty and the lost city of Ani, the ongoing tragedy of Nagorno-Karabakh — most recently the 2023 displacement of its entire Armenian population. We meet Aram Khachaturian, whose Sabre Dance became one of the most recognisable pieces of music on Earth. We meet Charles Aznavour, a refugee's son who became one of the biggest stars in French music history. We eat khorovats grilled over open coals, lavash baked in an underground clay oven, and khash — the dawn soup that Armenian men swear cures a hangover and mends a friendship in the same bowl.

We stand at Khor Virap, looking at a mountain that isn't theirs anymore. And we ask what it means for a nation to survive on memory alone, for a while, and then decide to keep going anyway.

The mountain is still there. So are they.

New episodes every Monday at 7pm. Next week — Australia.