83 Years & Charging: Felipe Pomar's Journey From Peru To Pipeline | Tappa's Green Room EP38
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概要
This episode is sponsored by Official Beer Co.
Produced by Podfire.
From pioneering big waves in 1950s Peru to surviving a tsunami at sea, this is one of the wildest stories ever told in The Green Room.
In Episode 38, Tappa sits down with 1965 International Surfing Federation World Champion Felipe Pomar — a true surfing trailblazer. Felipe shares what it was like surfing 8–12ft waves at just 14 years old on a 9’6” balsa board, exploring uncrowded Peruvian coastlines with Surfer Magazine founder John Severson, and carving out his reputation on Hawaii’s North Shore in the early 60s — long before leashes, jet skis, or crowds.
He relives winning the first official ISF World Title, competing head-to-head with Nat Young, turning down a Hollywood acting offer from MGM, and training for the biggest waves of his life.
But the heart-stopping moment? Being caught in the ocean during a massive earthquake that triggered a tsunami — paddling through whirlpools, 6–8ft chaotic chop, and watching a fishing boat launched into cliffs — before barely making it to shore.
Now 83 and still charging big waves on an 11’8” stand-up board, Felipe shares his “Surf Till 100” philosophy — the training, nutrition, recovery and mindset that keeps him fit, fearless, and stoked.
This one is pure surfing history — and proof that age is just another wave to ride.