『(244) The History of Mascarpone』のカバーアート

(244) The History of Mascarpone

(244) The History of Mascarpone

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概要

This segment is titled "The History of Mascarpone Cheese."

The history of mascarpone cheese, that luxuriously creamy Italian dairy product often hailed as the star ingredient in tiramisu and other indulgent desserts, is rooted in the fertile dairy traditions of northern Italy, particularly the Lombardy region south of Milan, where rich pastures, abundant cow's milk, and centuries of cheesemaking expertise have long thrived. Emerging during the Renaissance era, likely in the late 16th or early 17th century—though some sources trace references as far back as the 15th century with mentions in texts like the 1477 Summa Lacticinorum by Pantaleone da Confienza—mascarpone developed as a practical way for local farmers and dairymen to utilize the abundant fresh cream skimmed from whole milk, especially in areas like Lodi, Abbiategrasso, and the lower Po Valley, where the landscape's lush grasses, herbs, and flowers nourished high-quality milk production. Unlike traditional cheeses that rely on rennet coagulation of milk and aging, mascarpone is technically not a cheese at all in the strictest sense but a fresh dairy cream product made through acid-heat coagulation: heavy cream (typically from pasteurized cow's milk) is gently heated to around 85–90°C, then acidified with citric acid, tartaric acid (often from wine barrel residues), or sometimes acetic acid or lemon juice, causing the fats and proteins to separate and curdle into soft, velvety curds that are drained through cheesecloth or muslin, resulting in its signature ivory-white color, smooth spreadable texture, mild sweet-tart flavor, and exceptionally high fat content—often 60–75% or more on a dry basis, giving it that buttery richness and luxurious mouthfeel.

The name "mascarpone" itself remains a subject of delightful etymological debate, with no single definitive origin but several charming theories reflecting the region's linguistic and historical layers. One popular explanation links it to "mascherpa" or "mascarpia," a Lombard dialect term for ricotta or a similar whey-based product, highlighting the shared simple coagulation process between the two, though mascarpone uses cream rather than whey or milk. Another theory, favored by Lombard writer Gianni Brera, suggests that the fuller form "mascherpone" derives from "Cascina Mascherpa," a historic farmstead or locality in the borderlands between the provinces of Lodi, Milan, and Pavia, in the fertile Bassa Padana. A more romantic, if less substantiated, tale attributes it to the Spanish phrase "más que bueno" ("better than good"), an exclamation supposedly uttered by a Spanish noble during the period of Spanish domination in Milan (16th–18th centuries), praising the decadent treat. Regardless of its linguistic roots, mascarpone was traditionally a seasonal product, crafted mainly in winter when cream was plentiful and perishable goods easier to handle in cooler climates, and it carried the Prodotto Agroalimentare Tradizionale (P.A.T.) designation from the Italian government, recognizing it as a traditional agricultural food product tied to Lombardy without the stricter geographical protections of PDO status—meaning it can now be produced anywhere while still honoring its northern Italian heritage.

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