『(241) A Tale of Pasteis de Nata』のカバーアート

(241) A Tale of Pasteis de Nata

(241) A Tale of Pasteis de Nata

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概要

This episode is about the Portuguese sweet delicacy, Pastéis de Nata.

Picture this: You're wandering the sun-drenched streets of Lisbon, the air thick with the salty whisper of the Tagus River and the distant chime of tram bells. Suddenly, a heavenly scent stops you in your tracks—crisp, buttery pastry mingling with warm, creamy custard, dusted with cinnamon that dances like autumn leaves in the breeze. This is the allure of pastéis de nata, Portugal's iconic custard tarts, a treat so irresistible that it has seduced palates from monastery kitchens to global cafes. But these little golden gems are more than just a snack; they're a slice of history, a cultural emblem, and a culinary adventure waiting to be baked in your own oven. Let's embark on a flavorful journey through their story.

Our tale begins in the early 18th century, nestled in the grand halls of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a riverside parish in Lisbon. Back then, Catholic monks weren't just devoted to prayer; they were inadvertent innovators in the kitchen. With vast quantities of egg whites used for starching their habits (and even clarifying wines), the leftover yolks piled up like forgotten treasures. Resourceful as ever, the monks transformed these yolks into sweet confections, blending them with sugar, milk, and flour to create custardy delights. This wasn't unique to Jerónimos—Portugal's convents were hotbeds for such "conventual sweets," where egg-based recipes proliferated to avoid waste. But it was here, amid the ornate Manueline architecture now a UNESCO World Heritage site, that the pastel de nata truly took shape.

Fast-forward to the turbulent 1820s. The Liberal Revolution swept through Portugal, dissolving religious orders and threatening the closure of monasteries. Desperate to sustain themselves, the Jerónimos monks began selling their custard tarts at a nearby sugar refinery. It was a hit—locals couldn't get enough of the flaky, puff-pastry shells cradling that velvety, slightly caramelized filling. By 1834, the monastery shuttered its doors for good, but the recipe didn't vanish into oblivion. Instead, it was sold to the refinery owners, who opened the Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém in 1837. To this day, this bustling bakery churns out thousands of tarts daily, using a secret formula known only to a handful of master bakers who mix it behind locked doors. Legend has it that the original recipe has remained unchanged for nearly two centuries, a testament to the tarts' timeless appeal.

From these humble monastic origins, pastéis de nata evolved into a national treasure, weaving themselves into the fabric of Portuguese life. In Portugal, they're not reserved for special occasions; they're an everyday indulgence, savored warm from the oven with a sprinkle of cinnamon and powdered sugar, often paired with a strong bica (espresso) at local pastelarias. They symbolize resilience and ingenuity, born from necessity yet elevated to artistry. During Portugal's Age of Discoveries, spices like cinnamon (traded from Asia) added an exotic flair, making the tarts a microcosm of the country's seafaring heritage. Today, they're cultural ambassadors, exported to former colonies and beyond—think Hong Kong's dan tat or Macau's po tat, where Portuguese sailors introduced the recipes centuries ago. In Lisbon, queues snake out of Pastéis de Belém, where tourists and locals alike partake in this ritual, biting into layers of history with every crunch. Festivals celebrate them, and they're even protected under EU law as a traditional specialty, ensuring their authenticity endures. For the Portuguese, a pastel de nata isn't just food; it's a warm hug from the past, a sweet reminder of home in a fast-changing world.

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